Collagen Induction Therapy Without Risk of Hyperpigmentation and Other Topics: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: May 29, 2009, from the June 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Copolymers for fragrance retention: Beiersdorf AG discloses preparations for hair treatments, especially shampoos and conditioning shampoos, containing ampholytic copolymers of quaternary amine and acrylic acid for perfume-retaining effects.8 The disclosed copolymer was composed of 50% quaternary amine and 50% acrylic acid units; an example of a conditioning shampoo is shown in Formula 5.

Carbonates for hair coloring: Kao Professional Salon Services discloses compositions containing carbonates to color keratin fibers, especially to brighten hair.⁹ The compositions are based on oxidative dye precursors and optionally contain (% w/w): coupling agents and at least one carbonate, 0.75% to 5.00%; at least one ubiquinone at 0.001% to 1.00%; at least one ammoniated silicone at 0.01% to 1.00%; and at least one chelating agent at a concentration of 0.25% to 5.00%.

Acrylic polymers, ceramides in reparative hair care: Pola Chemical Industries discloses reparative hair compositions including acrylic polymers and ceramides to improve hair protein elution.10 The described acrylic copolymers contain a biological component and a ceramide. An example of such a composition is shown in Formula 6. Methods for selecting cosmetic components also are disclosed, which include the evaluation of damage to hair by measuring hair protein elution via IR spectra.

Foam for hair gloss: Kao Corp. discloses foam-type hair cosmetic compositions containing fatty acid alkylalkanolamides and silicone derivatives.¹¹ The described invention is said to provide a natural gloss to hair while exhibiting excellent low-temperature foaming properties and storage stability. The composition consists of: a) 0.1–3.0 % w/w of the fatty acid alkylalkanolamide—represented by a general formula: R1CON(R2)R3, wherein R1 = C5-23 fatty acid residue, R2 = C1-3 alkyl, and R3 = C2-4 alkanol—and b) 1.0% to 10.0% of a silicone derivative filled in a container with a propellant at 96/4–85/15. The composition may further contain polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters and/or polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil. An example is shown in Formula 7.

Linear higher alcohols for hair protection: Milbon Co., Ltd. discloses hair-protecting compositions containing linear higher alcohols, and a method for hair processing.¹² The method relates to applying a protective composition before using a two-step hair deformation agent including a reducing agent and an oxidizing agent; e.g., a permanent wave-setting agent and hair-straightening agent. The disclosed hair-protecting composition contains a C12-14 linear higher alcohol, a C15-18 linear higher alcohol, and a C19-22 linear higher alcohol. An example of such a composition is shown in Formula 8.