Collagen Induction Therapy Without Risk of Hyperpigmentation and Other Topics: Literature Findings
Formulas
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Formula 1. O/W Cleansing Cream4
Formula 1. O/W Cleansing Cream4
Paraffinum liquidum (mineral) oil 14.00% w/w Olefin oligomer 9.00 Petrolatum 4.00 Microcrystalline wax 1.00 Behenic acid 1.00 Stearyl alcohol 2.00 Squalane 0.50 PEG-100 stearate 1.20 Ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil 0.90 Glyceryl stearate 0.50 Fragrance (parfum) qs 1,3-Butylene glycol 5.50 Potassium hydroxide 0.10 Xanthan gum 0.04 PEG-4000 3.00 Preservatives qs Chelating agent qs Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 2. Skin unevenness-correcting cosmetic5
Formula 2. Skin unevenness-correcting cosmetic5
N-Isopropylacrylamide butyl methacrylate/poly (C2-3 alkylene glycol) dimethacrylate copolymer, sol-gel 15%; transition temperature 32°C (Mebi-Gel 32, Ichimaru Pharcos) 0.01% w/w Polyether (and) polysiloxane, partially linked (KSG-21, Shin Etsu) 2.00 Silica 2.00 Polymethyl methacrylate 8.00 Erythritol 2.00 Acrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymer 1.00 Dimethylpolysiloxane 10.00 Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 5.00 Sodium hydroxide 0.33 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 3. Hair tonic with adenosine6
Formula 3. Hair tonic with adenosine6
Ethanol 60.00% w/w Dipropylene glycol 8.00 Maltitol 4.00 Citric acid 0.05 Sodium citrate 0.10 Menthol 0.30 Vitamin E acetate 0.30 Adenosine 2.00 Synthetic fluorphlogopite (PDM polymer, Topy Industries) 1.20 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 4. Non-stain hair coloring composition7
Formula 4. Non-stain hair coloring composition7
Hydrogenated ester gum (Pinecrystal KE-311, Arakawa Chemical Industries Ltd.) 4.00% w/w Isoparaffin (IP Solvent 1620 MU, Exxon Chemical Corp) 30.00 Alkyl acrylate/styrene copolymer (Nissetsu U-3700A, Nippon Carbide) 24.00 Polyethylene (Performalene 500/New Phase Technologies) 7.00 Black iron oxide 2.00 Japan Red 202 0.01 Quaternium-18 hectorite 4.00
Propylene carbonate 1.00 Silica 2.00 Silicone-treated mica 2.00 Talc qs to 100.00 - Formula 5. Perfume-retaining Conditioning Shampoo8
Formula 5. Perfume-retaining Conditioning Shampoo8
Sodium laureth sulfate 7.00% w/w Sodium cocoamphoacetate 3.00 Ampholytic copolymer 0.10 Dimethicone 1.00 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.20 PEG-3 distearate 1.50 PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate 0.50
Sodium salicylate 0.20 Sodium benzoate 0.50 Fragrance (parfum) 0.30 Benzophenone-4 0.20 Sodium hydroxide qs Citric acid qs Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 6. Hair conditioning composition10
Formula 6. Hair conditioning composition10
Ceramide IIIA 0.20% w/w Polymethacryloyl lysine 0.10 1,3-Butanediol 5.00 Dimethyldistearylamine- chloride 1.00 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 7. Aerosol foaming hair conditioner11
Formula 7. Aerosol foaming hair conditioner11
Coco fatty acid N-methylethanolamide 0.50% w/w Dimethylpolysiloxane/ dimethiconol 3.00 Ethanol 15.00 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 Procedure: All ingredients were combined in a container with liquefied petroleum gas at 90:10.
- Formula 8. Hair Protecting Composition12
Formula 8. Hair Protecting Composition12
Myristyl alcohol 2.50% w/w Cetyl alcohol 3.00 Behenyl alcohol 2.50 Stearyl trimethylam- monium chloride 3.00 Trimethylammonium bromide 1.00 Ceteth-20 0.20 Glyceryl stearate 2.00 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 9. Cosmetic lip base14
Formula 9. Cosmetic lip base14
Ethylene homopolymer (Performalene 500, New Phase Technologies) 5.00% w/w Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax 5.00 Microcrystalline wax 3.00 Petrolatum 5.00 Polybutene (100R, Idemitsu Kosan Co., Ltd) 10.00 Glyceryl 2-ethyl hexanoate 20.00 Lanolin acetate 10.00 Iron-containing synthetic phlogopite (PDM-FE, Topy Industries) 20.00 Methyl polymethacrylate 5.00 Silica (Aerosil 300, Degussa AG) 0.10 Propylparaben 0.10 Rosemary extract 0.10 Hyaluronic acid 0.10 Fragrance (parfum) qs Diisostearyl malate qs to 100.00 - Formula 10. Lip cream stick15
Formula 10. Lip cream stick15
Fischer-Tropsch wax 5.00% w/w Ozokerite wax 5.00 Polyethylene wax 5.00 Beeswax 3.00 Carnauba wax 3.00 Triisostearin (Salacos 3318, The Nisshin Oillio Group) 20.00 Petrolatum 10.00 INCI not provided (Dow Corning Toray FZ-3156, Dow Corning) 5.00 Sunscreen 0.10 Antioxidant 0.10 Silica 0.50 Glyceryl trioctanoate qs to 100.00 - Formula 11. Makeup stick16
Formula 11. Makeup stick16
Polyurethane particles 10.00% w/w Tetrachlorotetrabromo- fluorescein 0.50 Candelilla wax 2.00 Octylmethoxy cinnamate 8.00 Liquid lanolin 10.00 Glyceryl triisostearate 5.00 Diisostearyl malate 5.00 Glyceryl diisostearate 5.00 Glyceryl tri(2-ethyl- hexanoate) 5.00 Macadamia nut oil cholesterol ester 5.00 Isostearyl oxystearate 5.00 Ceresin 10.00 Microcrystalline wax 1.00 Phytosterol 0.10 Titanium dioxide 4.00 Barium sulfate 2.00 Titanium mica 0.50 Glass powder 2.00 Isoparaffin qs to 100.00 - Formula 12. Eyelash cream17
Formula 12. Eyelash cream17
Polyisobutene 1.00% w/w Black iron oxide-coated titanium mica 7.00 Titanium/titanium oxide sintered product (Tilack D, Ako Kasei Co.) 1.00 Trimethylsiloxysilicate solution 5.00 Dextrin palmitate 2.00 Carnauba wax 4.00 Ceresin 5.00 Organo-modified bentonite 5.00 Silica 2.00 Black iron oxide 8.00 Talc 2.00 Liquid isoparaffin qs to 100.00 - Formula 13. Novel o/w emulsion18
Formula 13. Novel o/w emulsion18
Hydrogenated soya phospholipid (Nikkol Lecinol S-10EZ, Nikko) 3.00% w/w Glycerin 5.00 1,3-Butylene glycol 5.00 Squalane 10.00 Paraffinum liquidum (mineral) oil 5.00 Cetostearyl alcohol 2.00 N-Stearoyl-N-methyltaurine 0.80 INCI not provided (Pancogene Marin, 0.3% collagen in water, Gattefossé) 3.00 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 Black iron oxide 8.00 By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: May 29, 2009, from the June 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
This month’s survey of recent patent and research literature describes moneymaking ideas for personal care product development; including collagen induction without the risk of hyperpigmentation; algae and peptides to lift loose skin; UV-shielding makeup sticks; and volumizing mascara, among other concepts.
Skin and Skin Care
Collagen induction without the risk of hyperpigmentation: Aust et al. have published on whether minimally invasive skin rejuvenation, i.e., percutaneous collagen induction, can be performed without risk of hyperpigmentation.1 Photoaging generally is treated by ablative procedures that injure the epidermis and basal membrane, leading to fibrosis of the papillary dermis. Damaging the epidermis, however, can potentially cause significant adverse effects such as depigmentation. Alternatively, recent clinical trials have shown that percutaneous collagen induction therapy is safe for the treatment of wrinkles and scars and smoothing of skin without the risk of depigmentation.The purpose of this study was to learn whether percutaneous collagen induction therapy presents an effective means for skin rejuvenation without the risk of depigmentation, as clinical data from Aust et al. had suggested. Fifty-six rats were assigned to three groups: group A (n = 24) received percutaneous collagen induction therapy plus skin care; group B (n = 24) received only skin care; and group C (n = 8) served as the control. The authors evaluated the effect of percutaneous collagen induction therapy on the epidermis, melanocytes and the pigmentation markers interleukin-10 and MSH. Percutaneous collagen induction therapy left the epidermis intact without damage to the stratum corneum, layers of the epidermis, or basal membrane. No signs of dermabrasive reduction of epidermal thickness were evident 24 hr after the procedure, and the number of melanocytes neither increased nor decreased in any of the groups.
DNA microarray experiments demonstrated that interleukin-10 was increased in percutaneous collagen induction therapy-treated skin after two weeks. Concerning the MSH gene, gene expression microarray analysis indicated a slight down-regulation both 24 hr and two weeks after percutaneous collagen induction therapy. The authors concluded that percutaneous collagen induction therapy thus offers a modality with which to rejuvenate and improve skin’s appearance and quality without risking depigmentation.
Algae, peptides to lift loose skin: Labo Cosprophar AG discloses a cosmetic composition with a lifting effect to add support to loose facial tissue.2 The composition contains the algae Ulva lactuca in association with at least one of the following peptides: a) a polypeptide having the sequence arginine-glycine-aspartic acid, and derivatives or salts of such; b) a tripeptide including the amino acids lysine-valine-lysine, and derivatives or salts of such; and c) a micelle of both a) and b). The composition also contains glyceryl stearate, cetyl alcohol, octyldecanol, cetyl stearyl isononanoate, triglyceride C8-10, dimethylpolysiloxane, polysorbate 80, malt extract, sweet almond biopolymer, vitamin C, vitamin E, antioxidants, preservatives and perfumes.
- Formula 2. Skin unevenness-correcting cosmetic5