Diethanolamine Esterquats for Hair and Skin and Other Topics: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: May 4, 2009, from the May 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Interesting Raw Materials and Compositions
Yeast glucan carriers: Freimund et al. discuss yeast-derived beta-glucan as a novel carrier for cosmetic substances.¹⁵ In nature, 1,3-beta-d-glucan as structure-providing polysaccharides are common. They are present in the cell walls of bacteria, fungi and algae and contain different health-promoting properties. In particular, the beta-glucan from the common baking or brewer’s yeast has been intensively examined for more than 60 years, where its distinctive activating effect on the immune system has been proven multiple times.

In the meantime, glucan is offered as a natural substance both in capsule or tablet form and as an effective component of skin care products. However, no application has been found for this material as a potential carrier of active substances. Due to its insolubility in water but good swelling capacity, its availability at acceptable prices, and its self-actuation, the glucan from yeast offers new alternatives to conventional carrier systems. The authors present several successful results of recently developed carrier systems on the basis of a glucan yeast.

High unsaponifiables in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals: International Flora Technologies Ltd. disclosed the use of high unsaponifiables for cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.¹⁷ Materials with high levels of unsaponifiable matter, such as extracts from plants, result in hydrolyzates with unique properties. Researchers have found that applying a hydrolysis process to materials with a high level of unsaponifiables, e.g., at least 6% of the material, produces a product with properties significantly different than products resulting from conventional saponification and with < 6% unsaponifiables. The resulting hydrolyzates resist both physical and aqueous-based removal from skin and hair, exhibit a unique surfactant property, and are not foaming agents with water.

These hydrolyzates may be used to enhance the performance of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals since they are bioactive agents. They are also natural carrier alternatives for topical treatments, particularly for application of materials to the skin or hair, and provide a substantive support for the materials carried. A dramatic increase in skin hydration was observed for a majority of subjects testing a jojoba hydrolyzate skin lotion versus a control formula.

Glycerol ether/polyol mixtures: Air Liquide Sante discloses compositions that comprise one or more glycerol ethers together with one or more diol/diols and/or polyol/polyols.¹⁸ Such compositions were shown to provide microbiocidal efficacy, reducing or avoiding skin whitening and drying effects while regulating moisture content. An example is shown in Formula 10.