Diethanolamine Esterquats for Hair and Skin and Other Topics: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: May 4, 2009, from the May 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Sunscreens
Light-protective preparations: BASF SE discloses UV light-protective preparations, particularly for cosmetics, based on mixed inorganic/organic systems.11 The disclosed invention particularly relates to light-protective preparations containing nanoparticles of at least one metal derivative, at least one light-protective compound chemically bound to said metal derivative nanoparticles, and at least one additional organic UV light-protective agent that is different from the light-protective compound bound to nanoparticles. Therefore, substances termed hybrids were used in various compositions and were defined as titania or zinc oxide chemically bound to derivatives of triazine, hydroxybenzophenone, 4,4’-diaryl butadiene or other referenced UV-filters. An example is shown in Formula 7.

Antimicrobial sunscreen composition: Symrise GmbH & Co., KG rhas eleased compositions comprising benzyl alcohol derivatives and 1,2-alkanediols having 3 to 14 carbon atoms.¹² An example of a sunscreen using these antimicrobials is shown in Formula 8.

Photostable composition: Merck Patent GmbH discloses a photostable composition comprising diethylhexyl radical and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, preferably in a ratio 5:1 to 1:5.¹³ An example of a lip balm is shown in Formula 9.

Emulsions
Surfactant/biopolymer mixtures: Tadros et al. have published on personal care emulsions based on surfactant/biopolymer mixtures and the correlation of rheological parameters with sensory attributes.¹⁴ The stability of the o/w emulsions also was investigated using rheological techniques.

The biopolymer mixture included konjac mannan and xanthan gum (KX), which was emulsified with a mixture of alcohol ethoxylates or sucrose esters to produce two surfactant/biopolymer