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Diethanolamine Esterquats for Hair and Skin and Other Topics: Literature Findings
By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: May 4, 2009, from the May 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
- Formula 1. Shampoo Composition5
- Formula 2. Shampoo with an esterquat6
- Formula 3. Aerosol hair conditioner7
- Formula 4. Hair conditioner8
- Formula 5. W/O makeup remover9
- Formula 6. W/O skin cleanser10
- Formula 7. Inorganic-organic sunscreen11
- Formula 8. Sunscreen with new preservatives12
- Formula 9. Lip balm13
- Formula 10. Moisturizing cream18
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Water-induced thickening for hair: Shiseido Co., Ltd. discloses low-viscous, transparent compositions showing a water-induced thickening property.8 The compositions are suitable for use in a hair-conditioning compositions that provide good handling. The composition is characterized by containing a cationic surfactant; a polar oil selected from a group of ester oils, higher fatty acids and higher alcohols; a lower alcohol; and/or water. The composition shows a viscosity of < 1000 mPa·s. More specifically, the cationic surfactant has a general structure represented by:
[RCOO(CH2)nN+(Me)[(CH2)nOH] (CH2)nOCOR]X- Eq. 2
where R is C11-21 aliphatic hydrocarbon; n is 2,3; X is halogen, methosulfate, methophosphate. An example of a hair conditioner is shown in Formula 4.
W/O makeup remover: Kosei Co., Ltd. discloses a w/o cosmetic makeup remover.9 The makeup remover composition is said to provide good handling properties without dripping and leaves a fresh feeling after rinsing. The composition is characterized by containing 0.1–5% silicone-based surfactant, 5–20% isoparaffin, 0.1–5% dextrin fatty acid ester and 70–80% water. An example is shown in Formula 5.
Makeup deposition and removal emulsion: Narisu Cosmetic Co., Ltd. has disclosed w/o emulsions containing silicones, dextrin fatty acid esters and oils that have cleansing and makeup base effects.10 The w/o emulsions for makeup contain polyether-silicones as emulsifiers, volatile cyclosilicones as cleansing ingredients, organic modified clay minerals and/or partially cross-linked silicones as emulsion stabilizers, dextrin fatty acid esters and liquid oils. An example is shown in Formula 6. The emulsion showed good cleansing effects in removing a liquid foundation from the skin and a good makeup base effect in re-application of a liquid foundation to the skin. The emulsion showed no separation after 3 months’ storage at 40°C.