Diethanolamine Esterquats for Hair and Skin and Other Topics: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: May 4, 2009, from the May 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Water-induced thickening for hair: Shiseido Co., Ltd. discloses low-viscous, transparent compositions showing a water-induced thickening property.⁸ The compositions are suitable for use in a hair-conditioning compositions that provide good handling. The composition is characterized by containing a cationic surfactant; a polar oil selected from a group of ester oils, higher fatty acids and higher alcohols; a lower alcohol; and/or water. The composition shows a viscosity of < 1000 mPa·s. More specifically, the cationic surfactant has a general structure represented by:

[RCOO(CH2)nN+(Me)[(CH2)nOH] (CH2)nOCOR]X- _{Eq. 2}

where R is C11-21 aliphatic hydrocarbon; n is 2,3; X is halogen, methosulfate, methophosphate. An example of a hair conditioner is shown in Formula 4.

Color Cosmetics
W/O makeup remover: Kosei Co., Ltd. discloses a w/o cosmetic makeup remover.⁹ The makeup remover composition is said to provide good handling properties without dripping and leaves a fresh feeling after rinsing. The composition is characterized by containing 0.1–5% silicone-based surfactant, 5–20% isoparaffin, 0.1–5% dextrin fatty acid ester and 70–80% water. An example is shown in Formula 5.

Makeup deposition and removal emulsion: Narisu Cosmetic Co., Ltd. has disclosed w/o emulsions containing silicones, dextrin fatty acid esters and oils that have cleansing and makeup base effects.¹⁰ The w/o emulsions for makeup contain polyether-silicones as emulsifiers, volatile cyclosilicones as cleansing ingredients, organic modified clay minerals and/or partially cross-linked silicones as emulsion stabilizers, dextrin fatty acid esters and liquid oils. An example is shown in Formula 6. The emulsion showed good cleansing effects in removing a liquid foundation from the skin and a good makeup base effect in re-application of a liquid foundation to the skin. The emulsion showed no separation after 3 months’ storage at 40°C.