Diethanolamine Esterquats for Hair and Skin and Other Topics: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: May 4, 2009, from the May 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Surfactant/copolymer hair composition: L’Oréal has disclosed a cosmetic hair composition containing an anionic carboxylic surfactant and a vinylamide/vinylamine copolymer comprising 10–90% of -CH2-CH(NH2)- and 90–10% of -CH2CH-(NH(CO)H)- groups.5 An example of a shampoo is shown in Formula 1.

Diethanloamine esterquats for hair and skin: Clariant International Ltd. has disclosed hair and cosmetic compositions containing diethanolamine esterquats.6 The invention concerns diethanolamine esterquats of the general formula:

R1-CO-O-CH2-CH2-N+(CH3)2- CH2-CH2-O-CO-R2 A- Eq. 1

in which R1CO, R2CO are independently linear or branched saturated C18-24 alkyl carboxyl group; A- is a counter ion; and the total amount of C_18-23-alkyl-COOH groups relative to all R1COO- and R2COO- groups is 40% or more. The diethanolamine esterquats are used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions for the treatment of hair and skin. Therefore, didocosoylethyl dimonium chloride was prepared in two steps starting with behenic acid and methyldiethanol amine. The obtained methyldiethanolamine dibehenate was reacted with methylchloride under pressure. A similar product was included in a shampoo, shown in Formula 2.

Foam, aerosol hair conditioner: Kosei Co., Ltd. has introduced a foam aerosol-type hair conditioner composition.⁷ The conditioner is comprised of a solution containing highly polymerized dimethylpolysiloxane, an amino acid and/or its water-soluble derivative, a cationic cellulose derivative and/or its nonionic cellulose derivative, and water. The solution is combined with a propellant that is added to a container at a ratio of 70:30–97:3. An example is shown in Formula 3 where the solution was added to an aerosol container with liquid petroleum gas at 90:10 to produce a foam aerosol-type hair conditioner.