Orange Roughy Oil for Sensitive Skin and Other Topics: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: March 31, 2009, from the April 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Makeup Makeup remover stick: Kosei Co., Ltd. has developed a makeup remover stick containing solid fats of a melting point ≥ 70°C, di-C_14-15 alkyl carbonates, and powders.¹² The remover is said to feel soft to the touch and leave no sticky residue after use. A combination of polyethylene waxc, ethylene/propylene copolymerd, C_14-15 dialkyl carbonatee, petrolatumf, polymethyl methacrylateg, silicah, tocopherol acetate, propylparaben and polyglyceryl-2 triisostearatej showed effective removal of mascara.

Two-phase aqueous cosmetics: Kao Corp. has created two-phase aqueous cosmetics comprising powders coated with acrylic silicone graft copolymers, fluoro oils, water (aqua) and ethanol.¹³ The cosmetics are said to have efficacious redispersibility after a long storage time, and remain in two separate phases of a transparent solution layer and a powder layer while standing. An example of such a makeup base is shown in Formula 2.

Interesting Raw Materials
Plant extracts as antioxidants: Shiseido Co., Ltd. has disclosed the use of plant extracts as antioxidants, DNA damage inhibitors, and topical drugs and cosmetics.¹⁴ Plant extracts from Sarcandra glabra, Saraca dives, Cudrania pubescens, Taxodium distichum, Ludwigia octovalis, Deutzianthus tonkinensis, Alchornea trewioides, Berchemia polyphylla, Glochidion puberum and Sassafras tzumu are claimed to act as antioxidants, UV-induced DNA damage inhibitors, topical drugs and cosmetics. Formulation examples of creams, gels, cosmetic preparations and health drinks are presented.

Orange roughy oil for sensitive skin: Yamanouchi et al. review the properties of highly purified orange roughly oil, a marine-derived wax ester, for its physicochemical properties and effects on human skin, for application in cosmetics.¹⁵ The oil posseses a fatty acid composition that is more like human skin than jojoba wax. The stability of the oil during storage was found to be similar to olive oil and jojoba wax. From a human study, the marine oil significantly improved skin condition and the moisture-maintaining ability of atopic and/or dry skin subjects. Researchers concluded that orange roughy oil is suitable for sensitive skin care.

Interesting Vehicles
Oily bases: Nippon Emulsion Co., Ltd. and Ajinomoto Co., Inc. disclose oily bases combining esters of amino acids with dimer diols and optional fatty acids, in addition to cosmetics or topical preparations containing them.¹⁶ The bases are said to show good storage stability, pigment dispersibility and a good feel. Thus, titanium dioxide was mixed with N-myristoyl-N-methylalaninek for 3 min and allowed to stand for 3 days without resulting precipitation. A w/o cream foundation containing the aforementioned preparation and pigments showed effective covering properties and did not irritate skin.