Orange Roughy Oil for Sensitive Skin and Other Topics: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: March 31, 2009, from the April 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Proteoglycan photoaging inhibitors: Narisu Cosmetic Co., Ltd. introduced skin photoaging inhibitors containing proteoglycan-related substances, such as d-glucosamine-HCl, N-acetyl-d-glucosamine, d-xylose and sodium chondroitin sulfate, and cosmetics incorporating them.³ A milky lotion containing 2.00% w/w N-acetyl-d-glucosamine significantly increased decorin and decreased the area of UVB-induced wrinkles in hairless mice.

Composition for oily skin: Kosei Co., Ltd. disclosed an oily skin composition that contains gamma-oryzanol and N-acyl glutamic acid diesters,4 and wherein one compound contained is represented by the general formula: R1CONHCH(COOR2)CH2CH2COOR3 where R1 = C7-17 hydrocarbon; and R2 and R3 = C3-30 hydrocarbon; and wherein at least one compound is cholesteryl or phytosteryl. The composition showed improved storage stability of gamma-oryzanol and provided a fresh feeling on the skin without causing stickiness. An example is shown in Formula 1.

Improving stress with sweet orange oil: Shiseido Co., Ltd. used sweet orange oils, including orris oil and neroli oil, to improve stress response in cosmetics.5 Formulation examples of creams, gels, shampoos, foods and cosmetic preparations were given.

Lotus extract for anticellulite activity: Lenaers et al. describe a three-pronged approach to reduce cellulite, including targeting fat storage, inflammationmation and adipose tissue degradation.⁶ Silab has developed a lotus extract that provides anticellulite activity in these three areas. Research shows the extract reduces fat storage in mature adipocytes by activating lipolysis and inhibiting pre-adipocyte differentiation into mature adipocytes through the action of SIRT-1—a calorie restriction gene that limits the adipogenesis process. The extract also limits inflammation of adipose tissue by promoting the synthesis of adiponectin, an anti-inflammatory molecule; and finally, it preserves the adipose connective tissue by limiting its degradation.

Hair and Hair Care
Hair growth-promoting composition: Rath et al. disclose a composition and method for the promotion of hair growth on a mammal.⁷ The composition—including lysine, proline, arginine, an ascorbic compound, polyphenols, calcium, magnesium, N-acetyl-cysteine, selenium, copper and manganese—was administered to a mammal and found to promote hair growth at certain levels.