Delivery with Chitosan-coated Liposomes and Other Topics: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: February 26, 2009, from the March 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

This month’s survey of recent patent and research literature describes moneymaking ideas for personal care product development including the chitosan-coated liposome delivery of tamarind, luminescent pigments, microemulsions and laudanosine for antiaging, among others.

Skin and Skin Care
Skin moisturization: Tomaru has published a review on moisturizing products for the skin.¹ Moisturization is an important claim for skin care products. The stratum corneum (SC) has its own water-holding mechanisms but they are not always enough. Successful ways to moisturize skin include humectants and emollients that are adapted to the skin’s condition and the natural water-holding mechanisms.

Formulators can improve upon the water-holding ability of humectants by adjusting the microstructure of the ingredients; for example, with liposomes and other lamellar structures. Furthermore, improvement of total skin condition can be achieved by applying ingredients that promote the production of a moisturizing factor. An example of such an ingredient is an extract of rice in combination with water,^a which has been shown to increase the amount of ceramides, the main components of intercellular lipids.

W/O emulsion to prevent TEWL: L’Oréal discloses a skin care w/o emulsion for topical application comprising at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer and at least one semi-crystalline polymer.² The invention relates to the use of the composition or skin care, in particular for nourishing the skin, preventing transepidermal water loss and protecting the skin. The disclosed composition for a w/o moisturizing day cream is shown in Formula 1.

Liquid crystal composition: Bioentech Co., Ltd., discloses a liquid crystal composition, its manufacturing method and the cosmetic composition containing it.¹³ The liquid crystal composition contains saturated lecithin, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate. According to the inventors, based on the lamella-forming capability of lecithin, other components and an additional coating process are not necessary. The liquid crystal composition exhibits improved stability and moisturizing effects and reportedly bears a likeness to skin. The composition is capable of reducing water loss and can be widely used in cleansers. The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing the liquid crystal composition.