Water-soluble UV Filters and Other Topics

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: January 30, 2009, from the February 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

page 6 of 6

Makeup
Water resistance: Coty B.V. discloses water-resistant and abrasion-resistant eye and lip cosmetics containing film-forming acrylate copolymers.¹⁵ These decorative lipsticks and cosmetics for eyebrows and eyelashes have a gel structure comprised of water, a nonionic emulsifier, 1–30% by weight of a film-forming agent, and 0.01–35% by weight of an aliphatic hydrocarbon solvent or a volatile silicone derivative that cannot be mixed with water, but can be emulsified with water-based ingredients and solvents in the presence of an emulsifier. The water-emulsifiable, film-forming agent is based on an ethylacrylate-methylmethacrylate copolymer or acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or an ester thereof. One to 45% by weight of the cosmetic composition is a solid phase. An example is shown in Formula 6.

Powders: Shiseido Co., Ltd., discloses cosmetic compositions containing powders treated with perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane (POS) and powders containing hydroxyapatite (HA).¹⁶ The compositions contain 5–50% by weight of POS-treated powders or powders treated with POS and acrylic silicone copolymer. The compositions also contain 1–30% by weight of HA powder or HA-containing composite powder. The compositions may also contain zinc oxide, synthetic mica and/or spherical powders.

A solid powder cosmetic foundation containing 5% POS-treated powders (sericite, talc, mica) and 10% HA-coated mica also contained synthetic fluorophlogopite, zinc oxide and silicone-treated powders. This foundation showed a smooth feel, uniform finish and long-lasting makeup effect.

Sunscreens
Vinylpyrrolidone/acrylic acid copolymer: Beiersdorf AG discloses a cosmetic preparation with vinylpyrrolidone/acrylic acid copolymer.¹⁷ In addition to the copolymer, the cosmetic preparations of this invention contain one or more water-soluble UV photoprotective filters selected from the following group: 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid; phenylene-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3’,5,5’-tetrasulfonic acid; and the sodium, potassium and triethanolammonium salts of those two compounds. An example is shown in Formula 7.

Interesting Vehicles
Fragrance retention: Kao Corp. discloses isotropic one-phase liquid cosmetic compositions with excellent transparency, detergency, processability, and fragrance retention.¹⁸ The compositions contain nonionic surfactants with HLB > 9, nonionic surfactants with HLB 3–9, liquid oils, polyhydric alcohols, water and compositions of one or more perfumes selected from limonene, α-pinene, β-pinene, linalyl acetate, etc. Thus, a cleansing emulsion containing 11% polyoxyethylene octyl dodecyl ether (PODE, HLB = 13), 0.9% diglyceryl stearate, 1% PODE (HLB = 7), 2% ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil (EHCO, 10 EO), 2% polyoxyethylene glyceryl ether triisostearate, 3% EHCO (20 EO), 20% 2-ethylhexanoic acid triglyceride, 10% sorbitol, 10% glycerin, 10% 1,3-butylene glycol, 30% water and 0.1% perfume showed good spreadability on the skin and fragrance retention until washed out.

References
Send e-mail to ct_author@allured.com.
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