Water-soluble UV Filters and Other Topics

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: January 30, 2009, from the February 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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The nanocapsules were colloidally stable over a pH range of 3–11. The nanocapsules were included in two kinds of preparations, namely shampoo and hair tonic, and the preparations were applied every day for three weeks on the clipped backs of six-week-old mice (C57BL/6) to investigate the hair growth-promoting effect. The degree of hair growth was evaluated by image-analyzing the photographs of the backs and, in parallel, by the histological observation of the formation and the growth of hair or hair bulbs. The results were compared with those of commercially available minoxidil solution (3%). Phosphate buffered saline was used as a control. The in vivo hair growth-promoting effects of the two preparations were comparable to those of minoxidil solution. These results are in a good agreement with the histological and structural changes of follicles of the model animals, whose skins were treated with either the testing samples or the control in the same way the in vivo hair growth-promotion experiments were performed.

Simultaneous hair dyeing and waving: Ceres Cosmetic Co., Ltd., discloses a method for manufacturing a hair dye capable of forming a permanent wave.⁹ The method calls for the following steps:
• Add a dye, an antioxidant, an emulsifier and purified water to a pressurizing tank, slowly stirring and heating to 85°C to completely dissolve the ingredients, and then cooling the mixture to 35°C.
• Add a permanent wave-forming agent, and stir to dissolve.
• Add a stabilizer with stirring.
• Add a pH adjusting agent to obtain a first solution.
• Dissolve a reducing agent and additives to purified water to obtain a second solution.

The first solution comprises dyes, thioglycolic acid (antioxidant), polyoxyethylene nonyl phenyl ether (emulsifier), a permanent wave-forming agent, a polyquaternium-10 (stabilizer) and pH adjusting agent at 0.1–13.0, 0.05–0.5, 0.1–3.0, 1.1–12.0, 0.1–1.0 and 0.1–7.0% by weight, respectively, with purified water as balance. The second solution is composed of hydrogen peroxide, sodium lauryl sulfate solution, glycerin and EDTA at 1.0–20.0, 0.5–5.0, 0.5–5.0 and 0.5–1.0%, respectively, with purified water as balance. The hair dye can be used for dyeing hair and simultaneously forming a permanent wave, and has the advantages of lasting and good dyeing effect, high reliability without deterioration, and no damage to hair.

Preventing alopecia: Uniherb Skincare Co., Ltd., discloses a shampoo composition containing a medicinal herbal extract for preventing alopecia.¹⁰ The herbs included Angelica dahurica, Zanthoxylum pericarpium, Ocimum sanctum, Chrysanthemum indicum, Cnidium officinale, Eclipta prostrata, Morus alba, Sophora flavescens and Cynanchum wilfordii at 8–20%, 10–25%, 5–20%, 5–25%, 10–17%, 5–15%, 7–15%, 9–12% and 9–15% by weight, respectively. The extract is prepared by crushing the herbs to 70–95 mesh, extracting with 2 L of distilled water at 90°C for 6–10 hr, centrifuging at 700–900 rpm for 30–50 min to obtain supernatant fluid, and freezing for preservation. The shampoo composition described in the patent is prepared by adding the medicinal herbal extract according to the designated ratio. The shampoo composition can be used to treat dandruff, prevent alopecia and promote hair growth.

Black hair dye: Shuomingshu also discloses a two-component, nonoxidative permanent black hair dye composition containing Chinese medicinal materials as coloring agent and Eugenia caryophyllata as penetrant, and its preparation method.¹¹ The Chinese medicinal materials are Galla chinensis, Terminalia chebula (Fructus chebulae) and Cynips gallae-tinctoriae, which are present in the composition at 3–10%, 2–6% and 1–4% by weight, respectively.