EGF-mimicking Peptides and Other Topics

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: January 5, 2009, from the January 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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W/O/W emulsions: W/O/W emulsions containing alkyl polysaccharides, phospholipids and ionic surfactants are disclosed by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd., and Cosmo Technical Center Co., Ltd.¹⁷ Also disclosed are external compositions and cosmetics containing those emulsions.

The water phase contains a phospholipid, an ionic surfactant, and polysaccharide that contains a saturated C6-22 linear and/or branched alkyl group. The w/o emulsion is emulsified and/or dispersed in the water phase. More specifically, the w/o emulsion contains an organo-modified clay mineral, and the water phase contains an electrolyte and/or water-soluble active component. The emulsion shows improved storage stability even with a high concentration of electrolyte in the water phase. In the example shown in Formula 9, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose was reacted with stearyl glycidyl ether to obtain a stearyl glyceryl ether-modified polysaccharide; 96 parts of Mixture 1 was mixed with 4 parts of Mixture 2 to give a w/o/w emulsion composition.

Botulinum nanoemulsions: The University of Massachusetts discloses nanoemulsions containing Botulinum toxins.¹⁸ The nanoemulsions are prepared by high pressure microfluidization and comprise a particle size distribution in the 10-300 nm range.

These nanoemulsions are useful for the cosmetic and medical treatment of muscular contracture states. For example, Botulinum toxin may relax facial muscles such that skin wrinkles become smoother and less noticeable. Further, the present invention contemplates a cosmetic formulation that may be self-administered, for example, in the privacy of one's home and without medical supervision.

A Botulinum nanoemulsion formulation was prepared containing soybean oil, Polysorbate 80 and a commercial Botulinum toxin product^d. Muscle relaxant effects of the formulation were studied in mice.