EGF-mimicking Peptides and Other Topics

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: January 5, 2009, from the January 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Hair growth: Follica Inc. and The Trustees of the University of Pennsylvania disclose methods and kits to generate new hair follicles and grow hair by using topical compositions containing an inhibitor of a small molecule epidermal growth factor receptor (EGFR).¹² The EGFR inhibitor is a non-naturally occurring, nitrogen-including heterocycle of less than about 2,000 Da or a metabolite thereof.

To illustrate the effect of administration of EGFR inhibitors on disruption-induced hair follicle neogenesis, mice were subjected to incisional wounding in a 1 cm²-area of skin surface. Inhibitor AG1478 (150 µM in 10 µL vol.) was administered in test mice as a single injection to the middle of the wound near the skin surface 11 days after wounding. EGFR inhibitor administration led to generation of more and larger hair follicles compared with control mice that were wounded only. It was concluded that more and larger hair follicles can be generated when epidermal disruption-induced hair follicle neogenesis comprises or is followed by administration of EGFR inhibitors or compounds (such as Hedgehog protein and androgen antagonists) with a similar mechanism of action.

Makeup

Eyelashes and eyebrows: Black-colored composite powders and membrane-forming ingredients are components of cosmetics for eyelashes and eyebrows, according to a patent from Kosei Co., Ltd.¹³ The black composite powders are obtained by coating Japan Black 401 on a flaky base with interference light. Among the membrane-forming agents are rosin acid derivatives.

In one example, titanium micac and Japan Black 401 were dispersed in water. AlCl₃6H₂O and ZnCl₂ were added to the above dispersion and neutralized using 2% sodium hydroxide solution to precipitate Japan Black 401-containing hydrotalcite-type layered double hydroxide on the titanium mica. The product was heated, washed and dried to give a composite powder. An example of a water-based mascara containing the above powder is shown in Formula 7.