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EGF-mimicking Peptides and Other Topics

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: January 5, 2009, from the January 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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The compositions are generally usable for daily eyelid and eyelash hygiene. However, their capacity to limit irritation and burning sensation suit them particularly well for the treatment of inflammatory and infective pathologies such as blepharitis and blepharoconjunctivitis. In particular, the product can be supplied in the form of packaged sterile gauzes or wipes premoistened with the described preparation. Thus, a hygiene wipe was premoistened with the preparation shown in Formula 3.

Obesity and cellulitis: Greentech discloses the use of ferulic acid in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions as lipolytic agents for the prevention or treatment of obesity and/or cellulitis by systemic or local administration.7 Ferulic acid may itself be used and/or one of its salts and/or derivatives; these ingredients can be obtained from yacon plant or caigua vine. An extract of yacon was prepared and its lipolytic activity on cultured human adipocytes was shown. The formulation of a gel containing 5.00% of above extract is disclosed.

Peptides that mimic EGF: Caregen Co., Ltd., discloses peptides having activities of epidermal growth factor (EGF) but of higher stability and skin penetration potency, and their use in pharmaceutical compositions and cosmetics.8 The peptides contain the amino acid sequence Cys-Met-Tyr-Ile-Glu-Linker-Arg-Gly-Asp. They possess identical functions or activities to naturally occurring human EGF and are able to promote the generation of autocrine EGF in cells. In addition, these peptides have much higher stability and skin penetration potency than naturally occurring EGF. Therefore, a composition containing the peptide exhibited excellent treatment and prevention efficacies for diseases or conditions demanding EGF activities, and could be advantageously applied to pharmaceutical compositions, quasi-drugs and cosmetics.

Fifty milligrams of the tridecapeptide NH2-Cys-Met-Tyr-Ile-Glu-Gly(4)-Arg-Gly-Asp-Gly-OH was dissolved into 500 mL of distilled water and mixed with 5 g lecithin, 0.3 mL sodium oleate, 50 mL ethanol and a small amount of oils, and its volume was adjusted with distilled water to 1 L. The resulting solution was subjected to a microfluidizer under high pressure for emulsification, thereby providing nanosomes 100 nm in size. The nanosomes were prepared to have a final concentration of approximately 50 ppm and used as ingredients for cosmetics.

Improved percutaneous drug absorption: Improvements in stability and percutaneous drug absorption are disclosed by Rohto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., in an external preparation for skin.9 The preparation is comprised of a phospholipid having an iodine value of 80 to 110, ethanol at 55-83%, and 15-33% water. The preparation's stability is improved by suppressing the increase in an acid value of the phospholipid.