EGF-mimicking Peptides and Other Topics

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: January 5, 2009, from the January 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Claims are made for the compositions as well as their use in cosmetic and dermatological formulations. A disclosed skin care composition contained ceteareth-25, glyceryl stearate, stearyl alcohol, behenic acid, cholesterol, ceramide 1, ceramide 9, ceramide 3, ceramide 6, n-hexanoyl phytosphingosine, glycerine and two proprietary ingredients.^a,b

Foaming skin cleanser: Kanebo discloses skin-cleansing compositions containing an N-long-chain acyl acidic amino acid arginine salt obtained by neutralizing an N-long-chain acyl acidic amino acid with arginine at a ratio of 10/18-10/24.³ The composition may further contain a polyhydric alcohol. Liquid or cream, the composition has excellent foaming properties and provides a smooth finish to the skin. An example of a body shampoo composition is shown in Formula 1.

Antiaging via cell activation: Narisu Cosmetic Co., Ltd., discloses antiaging cosmetics containing lipids and cell activating agents.⁴ Antiaging skin preparations with excellent cell regenerating activities comprise cationic lipids and at least one substance selected from the group consisting of high energy phosphate compounds, riboflavin, ubiquinone and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADP). The compositions may further contain glycyrrhizinic acid derivatives and/or tocopherol derivatives. An example is shown in Formula 2.

Irritation reduction: Unilever PLC, Unilever N.V. and Hindustan Unilever Limited disclose skin benefit compositions with a vanilloid receptor antagonist and a hydroxyl acid.⁵ The compositions can reduce irritation of the skin, reduce wrinkles on the skin when applied, and can be formulated to contain glycolic acid and capsazepine.

Periocular hygiene: Opocrin S.p.A. discloses emollient cleansing compositions for eyelid and periocular hygiene.⁶ The compositions have enhanced ocular and skin tolerability. They consist of a-bisabolol as the anti-irritant ingredient in an aqueous solution containing, as main ingredients, one or more surfactants, one or more antiseptic or bactericide agents, and one or more emollient agents.