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Oligopeptides in Sensory, Proteins in Winter Skin and Carotenoids: Literature Findings
By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: November 26, 2008, from the December 2008 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
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The size and size distribution of the droplets were analyzed by laser diffraction. The results showed that the sprayability of the formulation and the particle size characteristics of the emitted sprays are dependent on the physicochemical properties of the formulations. Sprayable waterproof sunscreen emulsions with a high SPF and negligible percentage of emitted droplets, below 30 mm, were successfully developed by optimizing formulation parameters and using appropriate actuators and valves.
Colorless carotenoids for UV protection inside and out: von Oppen-Bezalel has published on UVA protection from the inside and outside with the colorless carotenoids phytoene and phytofluene.18 UVA causes damage by triggering an array of molecules in the cell to break down, resulting in the production of free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS). These potent mutagenic agents can cause changes in the physical structure of DNA.
Phytoene and phytofluene have been shown to effectively quench hydroxyl radicals and thus are effective against UVB/UVA damage. These materials were shown to protect DNA from damage caused by hydroxyl radicals by their ability to inhibit MMP-1 expression in IL-1 induced normal human fibroblasts in vivo, as well as their capability to inhibit melanin synthesis under UV-induced conditions. In addition, phytofluene lessened the energy of the light source from short, harmful wavelengths to longer, less-damaging wavelengths while zeta-carotene had significant absorption at the longer (higher) UVA wavelengths. Thus, phytoene and phytofluene, colorless carotenoids, could lessen the downstream effect of the UV light of collagen degradation to keep skin looking youthful.
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