Oligopeptides in Sensory, Proteins in Winter Skin and Carotenoids: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: November 26, 2008, from the December 2008 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

page 7 of 7

The size and size distribution of the droplets were analyzed by laser diffraction. The results showed that the sprayability of the formulation and the particle size characteristics of the emitted sprays are dependent on the physicochemical properties of the formulations. Sprayable waterproof sunscreen emulsions with a high SPF and negligible percentage of emitted droplets, below 30 mm, were successfully developed by optimizing formulation parameters and using appropriate actuators and valves.

Colorless carotenoids for UV protection inside and out: von Oppen-Bezalel has published on UVA protection from the inside and outside with the colorless carotenoids phytoene and phytofluene.18 UVA causes damage by triggering an array of molecules in the cell to break down, resulting in the production of free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS). These potent mutagenic agents can cause changes in the physical structure of DNA.

Phytoene and phytofluene have been shown to effectively quench hydroxyl radicals and thus are effective against UVB/UVA damage. These materials were shown to protect DNA from damage caused by hydroxyl radicals by their ability to inhibit MMP-1 expression in IL-1 induced normal human fibroblasts in vivo, as well as their capability to inhibit melanin synthesis under UV-induced conditions. In addition, phytofluene lessened the energy of the light source from short, harmful wavelengths to longer, less-damaging wavelengths while zeta-carotene had significant absorption at the longer (higher) UVA wavelengths. Thus, phytoene and phytofluene, colorless carotenoids, could lessen the downstream effect of the UV light of collagen degradation to keep skin looking youthful.

References
Send e-mail to ct_author@allured.com.
1. DE 102,006,047,529, Oligopeptides containing dermatological compositions for increase of skin sensing properties and sensory threshold, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH, Germany (Apr 10, 2008)
2. FR 2,906,723, New pharmaceutical and cosmetic composition and its applications in metabolic corrections of aging and ischemic cells, Sephar, France (Apr 11, 2008)
3. G Korinth et al, Enhancement of percutaneous penetration of aniline and o-toluidine in vitro using skin barrier creams, Toxicology in Vitro 22(3) 812–818 (2008) (in English)
4. K Sugimoto et al, Development of alpha-arbutin: Production at industrial scale and application for a skin-lightening cosmetic ingredient, Trends in Glycoscience and Glycotechnology 19(110) 235–246 (2007) (in English and Japanese)
5. JA Bouwstra et al, Skin lipid organization, composition and barrier function, IFSCC 10(4) 297–307 (2007) (in English)
6. Y Kobayashi et al, Increased carbonyl protein levels in the stratum corneum of the face during winter, Intl Jrnl of Cosm Sci 30(1) 35–40 (2008) (in English)
7. I Iwai et al, Change in optical properties of stratum corneum induced by protein carbonylation in vitro, Intl Jrnl of Cosm Sci 30(1) 41–46 (2008) (in English)
8. Ikeda T et al, Property of the functional raw materials for hair care, Frag Jrnl 35(6) 55–60 (2007) (in Japanese)
9. T Doering et al, Super mild oxidation coloring: Preventing hair damage at the molecular level, IFSCC 10(4) 323–329 (2007) (in English)
10. EP 1,911,435, Two-phase composition for improving curl retention, KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH, Germany (Apr 16, 2008)
11. F Guala et al, Oleoyl sarcosine: New perspectives and applications, Rivista Italiana delle Sostanze Grasse 84(4) 237–245 (2007) (in English)
12. S Daikai, Development and application of a novel amino acid derivative and a novel peptide derivative for hair care, Frag Jrnl 35(6) 49–54 (2007) (in Japanese)
13. JP 2008 88,148, Damaged hair-repairing agents and hair cosmetics containing methacrylate copolymers, Daito Chemical Industry Co, Ltd, Japan (Apr 17, 2008)
14. FR 2,907,005, Use of orcein for the coloring of human hair, L’Oréal, France (Apr 18, 2008)
15. FR 2,907,004, Method for dyeing of hair by means of a styrylic or iminic dye in combination with a zinc salt, L’Oréal, France (Apr 18, 2008)
16. WO 2008 46,795, Use of C10-14 alkanediols in the preparation of a composition for the prophylaxis and/or treatment of malassezia-induced dandruff formation, Symrise GmbH & Co, K-G, Germany (Apr 24, 2008)
17. L Durand et al, Influence of different parameters on droplet size and size distribution of sprayable sunscreen emulsions with high concentration of UV-filters, Intl Jrnl of Cosm Sci, 29(6) 461–471 (2007) (in English)
18. L von Oppen-Bezalel, UVA, a main concern in sun damage: Protection from the inside and outside with phytoene, phytofluene, the colorless carotenoids and more, SOFW Jrnl 133(11) 29–30, 32, 34 (2007) (in English)