Oligopeptides in Sensory, Proteins in Winter Skin and Carotenoids: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: November 26, 2008, from the December 2008 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Orcein for hair coloring: L’Oréal disclosed the use of orcein for coloring human hair.¹⁴ A hair dye was described comprising orcein and at least a surfactant and/or a thickening polymer, including: 5% benzyl alcohol, 15% ethanol, 0.2% benzoic acid, 1.6% hydroxyethyl cellulose, and 0.5% alpha-hydroxy-orcein. This formula was applied to white hair; the hair was rinsed, shampooed, washed and dried; and a dark purple was obtained.

Styrylic or iminic dye and zinc salt in hair dye: L’Oréal also described a method for dyeing hair by means of a styrylic or iminic dye, in combination with a zinc salt.15 This invention relates to a process for dyeing human keratin fibers, such as hair, using a dye composition comprising at least one dye of styryl or imine type in the presence of a revealing composition comprising a zinc salt.

The invention also relates to a device suitable for implementing said process. The invention is reported to provide chromatic and fast coloration of keratin fibers that is visible even on dark hair that has not had any previous lightening treatment. It also provides coloration that under certain conditions does not stain. An example is shown in Formula 2.

C10-14 alkanediols for dandruff: Symrise GmbH discloses the use of C10-14 alkanediols in a composition for the prophylaxis and/or treatment of malassezia-induced dandruff formation.16 This invention uses C10-14 alkane-1,2-diols—in particular 1,2-decanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol and/or 1,2-tetradecanediol. An example antidandruff shampoo is shown in Formula 3.

Sunscreens
Formulation variations and their impact on sprayable sunscreens: Durand et al.¹⁷ have studied the possible influence of different formulation and technological parameters—such as sunscreen type and concentration, viscosity, propellant gas, actuator and valve type—on size and size distribution of droplets in waterproof sunscreen emulsions conditioned in aerosol cans. W/Si and w/o emulsions were prepared with high concentrations of organic and inorganic UV filters. These formulations were incorporated in aerosol cans with a blend of butane, propane and isobutane.