Oligopeptides in Sensory, Proteins in Winter Skin and Carotenoids: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: November 26, 2008, from the December 2008 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Alpha-lipoic acid significantly protected human hair during oxidation coloring, as demonstrated by amino acid and protein analysis; surface polarity measurement; lipid analysis; differential scanning calorimetry; and combing work measurements. The results showed that radical scavenging properties alone do not render antioxidants suitable for hair protection during oxidative treatments. The presence of disulfide bonds appeared to be favorable, and it is likely that the intramolecular cross-linking within alpha-lipoic acid provided a kinetically controlled protection for cystine cross-linking during oxidation coloring.

Two-phase curl retention system: KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services has disclosed a two-phase composition for conditioning and improving curl retention in permanently shaped and/or natural curly hair.¹⁰ The described invention comprises two optically separated phases at a zero shear rate that become homogeneous upon shaking and return to optically separated phases. Specifically, the invention includes a 5.0% to 50% w/w oil phase and a 50% to 95% w/w aqueous phase wherein the oil phase comprises: at least one volatile oil, at least one fixing polymer, at least one water miscible organic solvent and 0.05% to 2.0% of a cationic surfactant. The oil phase also contains trisiloxane and fragrance, and the aqueous phase contains vinyl acetate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, steartrimonium chloride, di-C12-15-alkyldimonium chloride, ethanol, citric acid/ammonium hydroxide and water.

Raw Materials
Oleyl sarcosine for thickening, deposition: Guala et al. have presented a new view on oleoyl sarcosine and review its applications.¹¹ Acyl sarcosinates have been known for their foaming ability, skin mildness and compatibility with many surfactants and conditioning agents. In particular, oleoyl sarcosine has been widely used as a corrosion inhibitor and leather treatment. In this work, the authors explore its possible applications in cosmetics—a completely new field. The authors demonstrate that oleoyl sarcosine can be used as an effective thickening agent for surfactant solutions and to increase emollient deposition on the skin. Applications in cosmetics also are described.

Amino acid, peptide derivatives for hair care: Daikai reviews the development and application of a novel amino acid derivative and a novel peptide derivative for hair care.¹² Hair conditioning agents are expected to absorb on or into hair to enhance its attributes. Here, the author has developed two novel hair care ingredients: an amino acid based on a low molecular amphoteric moisturizer, and a peptide-derived silicone polymer. These materials have been shown to regenerate properties of healthy hair in damaged hair, which was achieved by introducing a glycerol moiety into the arginine molecule. This novel moisturizer is reported to adsorb onto the cuticle edge of the hair surface and into the hair, raising the moisture content and thus increasing the tensile strength of the hair treated. As a result, water evaporation from inner hair is reduced and decolorization is prevented after coloring treatment.

Hair regeneration, methylacrylate copolymers in hair cosmetics: Daito Chemical Industry Co. discloses hair-repairing agents and hair cosmetics containing methacrylate copolymers.¹³ The disclosed repair agents are polyfluorooctyl methacrylate; N,N-diethylaminoethyl methacrylate; 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate; and 2,2’-ethylenedioxydiethyl dimethacrylate copolymer (I) and/or its salts. The hair cosmetics described contain these agents, preferably at 0.1% to 5.0% w/w, and may also contain silicone gum. These agents were found to be effective at repairing damaged hair.