Black Truffle, Nanocrystals and Flexible Films: Recent Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Charles Fox Associates

Posted: October 30, 2008, from the November 2008 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Ascorbic acid glucoside, peptides in liquid cosmetics: Kosei Co., Ltd., also discloses liquid cosmetic compositions containing ascorbic acid glucoside and basic peptides.¹⁴ The liquid cosmetic composition disclosed is characterized by containing L-ascorbic acid glucoside and a basic peptide, e.g., N-beta-alanyl-L-histidine, wherein the use of the basic peptide improves storage stability of the ascorbyl glucoside without causing discoloration. An example is shown in Formula 10.

Cosmetic/therapeutic compositions, flexible solid films: Biofarmitalia S.p.A. discloses solid cosmetic and therapeutic compositions and flexible solid films comprising hyaluronic acid. These compositions are applicable to human skin and gel upon contact with water.¹⁵ The compositions prepared as flexible solid films can be used for cosmetic and/or therapeutic purposes. They may contain hyaluronic acid, a fine, inert powder, and water as essential components. Thus, a solid film with a hydrating and filling effect on cutaneous microprotuberances comprised: water as a solvent at 80.2 kg; hyaluronic acid as a filmogen at 9.8 kg; and lauroyl lysine, an inert powder, at 10 kg.

Silicone elastomers in cosmetics: L’Oréal discloses an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising nonspherical silicone elastomers and a silicone elastomer encapsulated in silicone.¹⁶ The compounds can be used for makeup and hair compositions. An example is shown in Formula 11.

Hydrofluoro ethers, polyhydric alcohols and emulsifiers: Shiseido Co., Ltd., discloses cosmetic compositions containing hydrofluoro ethers, polyhydric alcohols and emulsifiers.¹⁷ The disclosed invention relates to a composition that provides a sensory cue of feeling cool then warm on the skin, without leaving a sticky residue. The described composition contains: a) a hydrofluoro ether having a viscosity at 25°C < 5 mPa•s; b) a polyhydric alcohol; and c) an emulsifier; and wherein the composition contains little or no water. An example is shown in Formula 12.

Kosei Co., Ltd., also discloses liquid o/w cosmetic emulsion compositions.¹⁸ These liquid o/w cosmetic emulsions contain higher amounts of oil with low viscosity, and having good storage stability. One example composition disclosed contained 0.5–2.0% isostearic acid; 1–3% basic amino acid; 7–20% of an oily component; 0.2–1.5% glyceryl stearate; and 0.2–1.5% of a higher alcohol. The composition reportedly showed a viscosity at 25°C of < 500 mPa•s. An example is shown in Formula 13.