Black Truffle, Nanocrystals and Flexible Films: Recent Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Charles Fox Associates

Posted: October 30, 2008, from the November 2008 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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A kit is described comprising a first composition for application onto keratinous materials, and a second composition for application onto the first composition. The second composition comprises a physiologically acceptable medium and monodisperse particles. Thus, an eyeshadow composition contained 30% polystyrene particles, 67.5% pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate and 2.5% PEG dimethicone. A blue-green color is obtained after the composition has been applied. A base coat containing 80% acrylates/ammonium methacrylate copolymer^a, 10% black colorant^b and 10% water may be applied to the eyelids prior to application of the above composition. ^a Ultrasol 2075 (INCI: Acrylates/ammonium methacrylate copolymer) is a product of Presperse.
^b Cab-O-Jet 200 is a black colorant from Cabot that is used for inks.

Interesting Raw Materials

Water-, oil-repellent cosmetics: Kao Corp. discloses water- and oil-repellent cosmetics containing fluorine-modified silicones and perfluoroalkyl-containing liquid oils.¹¹ The described compositions contain, a):

R₆SiR₇R₈O­[SiR₁[(CH₂)_mO(CH₂)_nR_f]O]_p (SiR₂R₃O)_q­(SiR₄R₅O)_r­SiR₆R₇R₈

where R_f = C1-20 perfluoroalkyl; R₁, R₂, R₄, R₅, R₆ and R₇ = C1-4 linear or branched hydrocarbyl phenyl; R₃ = a linear or branched hydrocarbyl having an average carbon number above 20 and less than or equal to 50; R₈ = C1-4 linear or branched hydrocarbyl, linear or branched hydrocarbyl having an average carbon number above 20 and less than or equal to 50; m = 2-3; n = 1-6; p = 1-50; q and r = 0-50; and when R₈ = C1-4 linear or branched hydrocarbyl, then q = 1-50; b) liquid oils having perfluoroalkyl groups; and, optionally, c) powders treated with fluoride-containing compounds.

Thus, the reaction of Me₃SiO(SiMeHO)₃₂SiMe₃ with C₁₀F₂₁(CH₂)₂­OCH₂CH:CH₂ and alpha-olefin with an average carbon number of 24 yielded Me₃SiO[SiMe­[(CH₂)₃O(CH₂)₂C₁₀F₂₁]O]₁₇­[SiMe(CaH₂a+1)O]₁₅SiMe₃ or I. A cosmetic foundation containing 20% w/w octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, 3% w/w I, 6% w/w fluoroalkoxyalkyl-modified silicone oil and fluoro compound-treated pigment powders, etc., showed good water and oil repellency, a good skin feel and low color migration to clothing.