Black Truffle, Nanocrystals and Flexible Films: Recent Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Charles Fox Associates

Posted: October 30, 2008, from the November 2008 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Tuber enzymic hydrolyzates for cell proliferation: Kao Corp. discloses epidermal cell proliferation stimulators containing tuber enzymic hydrolyzates from Tuber mycelium; e.g., Tuber magnatum and/or Tuber melanosporum mycelium.⁶ The epidermal cell proliferation stimulator is suitable for use in antiaging, skin-lightening or wound-healing applications. For example, freeze-dried and crushed Tuber melanosporum (black truffle) mycelium was treated with Actinase E and Tunicase FN to obtain an enzymic hydrolyzate for studying its effect on epidermal cell proliferation in vitro.

Makeup

Oligomers, powders for eyelashes and brows: Kosei Co., Ltd., discloses makeup for eyelashes and eyebrows comprising olefin oligomers and surface-treated powders.⁷ The disclosed makeup contains alpha-olefin oligomers, powders that are surface-treated with siloxy group-containing methacrylate copolymers, volatile solvents and, optionally, solid oils. An example of a mascara gel is shown in Formula 6.

Colored fibers, treated powders for eyelashes, brows: Kosei Co., Ltd., has diclosed cosmetics for eyelashes and eyebrows comprising colored fibers and surface-treated powders.⁸ The described cosmetics include colored fibers and powders that are surface-treated with siloxy group-containing methacrylate copolymers, in addition to membrane-forming ingredients and, optionally, solid oils. An example of a mascara cream is shown in Formula 7.

O/W emulsions for eyelashes: Kosei Co., Ltd., also discloses o/w emulsions for eyelashes containing water-soluble polymers and modified organopolysiloxane.⁹ This cosmetic composition provides a volumizing and lengthening effect and contains a stringing, water-soluble polymer and a solid or paste, long-chain alkyl-modified organopolysiloxane or long-chain alkoxy-modified organopolysiloxane having a melting point < 60°C. The composition may further contain a film-forming polymer emulsion and/or a wax. An example of a cream-type mascara composition is shown in Formula 8.

Monodisperse particles for keratin surfaces: L’Oréal discloses a cosmetic composition for keratinous surfaces comprising monodisperse particles in a liquid medium.¹⁰ The invention is designed for, but not limited to, application to keratinous materials, in particular the skin, lips, nails or eyelashes. The composition comprises: a physiologically acceptable liquid medium that is anhydrous and non-pulverulent, including an oily phase such as a polysiloxane; and monodisperse particles suitable for forming an ordered lattice of monodisperse particles on a substrate, onto which the composition is applied.