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Black Truffle, Nanocrystals and Flexible Films: Recent Literature Findings
By: Charles Fox, Charles Fox Associates
Posted: October 30, 2008, from the November 2008 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
- Formula 1. Oily skin cleanser with water-soluble scrubbing agent1
- Formula 2. Bath oil2
- Formula 3. Skin whitening lotion3
- Formula 4. Anti-acne preparation4
- Formula 5. Moisturizing lotion5
- Formula 6. Mascara gel7
- Formula 7. Mascara cream8
- Formula 8. Creamy mascara composition9
- Formula 9. Skin care vesicle composition13
- Formula 10. Non-discoloring ascorbic acid lotion14
- Formula 11. Composition with silicone elastomers16
- Formula 12. Composition providing a change in skin warmth17
- Formula 13. Liquid o/w emulsion with high oil content18
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Alkyleneoxide derivatives for anti-acne: Shiseido Co., Ltd., discloses skin compositions containing alkyleneoxide derivatives that are reported to have excellent acne prevention effects.4 The disclosed compositions are characterized by containing: a) an alkyleneoxide derivative represented by the formula:
where AO = C3-4 oxyalkylene; EO = oxyethylene; m and n = 1–70; the ratio of (EO)n to (AO)m(EO)n = 20–80%; AO and EO may form block or randomly adduct; and R1, R2 = C1-4 alkyl; b) an anti-inflammatory agent; and c) a keratin-softening/peeling agent, antibacterial/antiseptic agent, and/or a sebum-preventing/absorbing agent. An example of an anti-acne composition is shown in Formula 4.
Skin-freshening, softening o/w emulsion: Shiseido Co., Ltd., also discloses o/w cosmetic emulsions containing polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty derivatives, surfactants and higher alcohols.5 This oil-in-water composition demonstrates skin-freshening and softening effects and has good skin permeability and storage stability. The disclosed composition is characterized by containing: a) a C14-18 linear saturated fatty acid-derived polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester; b) an anionic or nonionic surfactant; c) a C14-22 unbranched higher alcohol, and d) glycerin monoalkyl ester, glycerin monoalkyl ether, sorbitan monoalkyl ester, sorbitan monoalkyl ether, sterol and/or a branched higher alcohol.
The composition shows molar ratios of (1):(2) = 1:0.05–1:1.5; and [(1) + (2)] : [(3) + (4)] = 1:3–1:6; but (3)/[(3) + (4)] = > 0.3. The composition may further contain an organic acid or its salt. The composition also specifically contains a minimized amount of a water-soluble thickener (< 0.1%). An example is shown in Formula 5.