Black Truffle, Nanocrystals and Flexible Films: Recent Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Charles Fox Associates

Posted: October 30, 2008, from the November 2008 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

In this monthly survey of recent patent and literature research, the author describes money-making ideas in the personal care industry, ranging from a water-soluble scrubbing agent and black truffle for cell proliferation, to ascorbyl palmitate nanocrystals and an o/w emulsion for eyelash-volumizing and lengthening, among others.

Skin and Skin Care

Water-soluble scrubbing agent for oily cleansers: Kosei Co., Ltd., discloses a water-soluble scrubbing agent with an average particle diameter of 200 μm that is suitable for use in an oily skin cleanser.¹ The scrubbing agent contains a solid polyethylene glycol as a paste or solid and a water-soluble silicone-based surfactant with a HLB value > 7. An example of an oily skin cleanser incorporating the scrubbing agent also is disclosed (see Formula 1).

The formula is prepared by incorporating 50 parts polyethylene glycol with a molecular weight of 20,000 and 50 parts polyoxyethylene methylpolysiloxane copolymer with an HLB of 9. This skin cleanser was reported to exhibit an excellent cleansing effect for removal of lipstick from the skin without leaving a sticky after feel.

Emulsion bathing preparations: Kao Corp. discloses emulsion-type liquid bathing preparations containing hydrocarbon oils and polyoxyethylene alkyl phosphate esters.² These bath preparations have a median emulsion particle diameter of 0.1–0.4 μm and contain 10–45% w/w oily ingredients, containing 10–40% w/w hydrocarbon oils containing petrolatum; and 0.1–5.0% w/w polyoxyethylene C10-14-alkyl phosphate esters or their salts. The final preparation exhibited a whey-like, transparent appearance when added to bath water and produced a moisturizing effect. An example is shown in Formula 2.

Leucine, isoleucine in skin whitening: S.S. Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., discloses skin-whitening compositions containing leucine and/or isoleucine as active components.³ The compositions may further contain alanine and/or glycine. An example of a skin-whitening lotion is shown in Formula 3.