Some New Antimicrobials

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: September 30, 2005, from the October 2005 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

Those interested in an update on skin moisturization should obtain a reprint of the review “Stratum Corneum Moisturization at the Molecular Level: An update in relation to the dry skin cycle” by Rawlings et al.1 It traces the development of thought about the mechanism for skin moisturization for the past few decades, starting with Irwin Blank’s work in the 1950s. We have come a long way in better understanding the mechanism of skin moisturization and dry skin.

17β-estradiol: Eui Dong Son et al. have investigated the effects of topically applied 17β-estradiol on the expression of extracellular matrix proteins in aged human skin. 17β-estradiol in a vehicle containing 70% propylene glycol and 30% ethanol was applied to aged (68-82 years) human buttock skin under occlusion for 2 weeks. Topical 17β-estradiol was found to increase type 1 procollagen and protein signifi cantly. Topical 17β-estradiol also increased keratinocyte proliferation and the epidermal thickness in aged human skin. The same results were observed in young skin.

The authors conclude that topical 17β-estradiol treatment may improve the cutaneous functions of aged human skin by improving the connective tissue and increasing epidermal thickness. Exfoliative enzymes: Seki reports on exfoliative enzymes and their cosmetic application.3 Impaired exfoliation of stratum corneum (SC) results in roughgrained or dark skin appearance, suggesting that exfoliation-related proteases might play a critical role in the control of skin appearance. For the complete article, click on "Purchase this article."

This is only an excerpt of the full article that appeared in Cosmetics & Toiletries, but you can purchase the full-text version.