Patent Picks—Zebra Fish Peptides, Functionalized Adjuvants, Co-jetting and More

By: Rachel L. Grabenhofer

Posted: June 20, 2012

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Pharmaceutical and/or cosmetic composition containing mutant zebra fish peptides
US Patent 8188050
Publication date: May 29, 2012
Assignee: ISP Investments Inc.

This invention concerns the use of peptide fragments of the protein SLC24A5 as active agents designed to induce, increase or restore the synthesis of melanin in the melanocytes of the epidermis or of the pilar bulb, alone or in association with at least one other active agent, in a cosmetic composition or for the preparation of a pharmaceutical or dermatological composition. According to this patent, the protein SLC24A5 was recently discovered in mutant zebra fish that exhibited skin lighter than individuals of the same species. The mutant fish possess a variant form of the protein associated with the of melanosomes in its skin that are less numerous, smaller and lighter in color.

The studies conducted on this fish enabled the SLC24A5 protein to be localized in the membrane of the melanosomes, and its probable function attributed to an ion-exchange channel for sodium/calcium ions. The role of the SLC24A5 protein in the coloration of the human skin seems to be a determining factor, since the polymorphism recognized in the human gene, which is manifested respectively by the presence of an alanine or a threonine, is split up in a very differentiated way according to the phenotypes of skin color. Thus, the alanine allele has a frequency of 93% among Africans, while the threonine allele is found in 98–100% of Europeans. To date, no use of the SLC24A5 protein has been described in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions.

Clear cosmetic compositions containing lipophilic materials
WIPO Patent Application WO/2012/076531
Publication date: June 14, 2012
Assignee: L'Oréal, H Cao and D Burakov

Disclosed in this patent are methods for cleansing and conditioning keratinous substrates, as well as a composition comprising: a) at least one alkoxylated monoamine; b) at least one alkoxylated monoacid; c) at least one lipophilic compound; d) at least one surfactant; e) at least one cosmetically acceptable carrier; and f) optionally, at least one auxiliary ingredient; wherein the ratio by weight of b):a) is greater than 1, and wherein the ratio by weight of a)+ b):c) is greater than 2. The methods can provide hair with improved shine, conditioning, manageability and styling ability. Skin and hair active agents that may be used in the composition include moisturizers; for example, protein hydrolysates and polyols such as glycerol; glycols, for instance, sugar derivatives; natural and plant extracts; anti-inflammatory agents; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; sunscreens; self-tanning agents and others.