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Herbal Extracts and Sebum Control and Other Topics
By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: October 4, 2004, from the October 2004 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
page 9 of 11
Cosmetic preparations composed of two phases without emulsifiers: Beiersdorf discloses cosmetic preparations composed of two phases without emulsifiers.14 The invention concerns cosmetic preparations (e.g., skin care products) that are composed of two phases without emulsifiers; phase separation is regulated via the specific gravity difference of the two phases; the specific gravity of the phases is influenced through the ingredients. The aqueous phase contains at least 50 wt/wt% (relative to the total preparation weight) alcohol and 0.01-60 wt/wt% (relative to the total preparation weight.) of organic and inorganic alkali metal and earth alkali salts. An example is shown in Formula 9.
| Formula 9. Two phase cosmetic preparation14 | |
| Ethanol | 60.000% |
| Magnesium sulfate | 0.100 |
| Fragrance (parfum) | 0.250 |
| Dicaprylyl carbonate | 18.000 |
| Isohexadecane | 6.000 |
| Glycerin | 2.500 |
| CI 14720 | 0.005 |
| Water (aqua) |
qs 100.000 |
Makeup
Pigment particles in W/O emulsions: Kao Corporation in recent patent discloses water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion compositions containing uniformly dispersed pigment particles.15 The invention relates to particles having an average particle size of 1-100 nm in the water phase, wherein the emulsion shows improved coloring property. A method for forming the water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion is also disclosed. A silicone-treated titanium dioxide slurry was prepared from 40% methyl hydrogen polysiloxane-treated titanium dioxide, 2% polyoxyethylene lauryl ether phosphate sodium salta, 2% polyoxyethylene octyl dodecyl etherb, 0.2% of an anti-forming agent, 5.58% ethanol and 50.22 % water. Silicone-treated iron oxide slurries were also prepared in a similar way. The obtained slurries were mixed with other powders, glycerin, water, and oily phase components to obtain a water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion.
Antimicrobials
Salvia cryptantha and Salvia multicaulis as antimicrobials, antioxidants: Tepe et al.16 have studied the antimicrobial and antioxidative activities of the essential oils and methanol extracts of Salvia cryptantha and Salvia multicaulis. The essential oils were examined for their potential antimicrobial and radical scavenging activities. Little or no activity was observed when the polar and non-polar subfractions of the extracts were tested, whereas the essential oils exhibited antimicrobial activity. The essential oils isolated from S. cryptantha and S. multicaulis were analyzed by GC-MS; 53 and 47 constituents were identified, respectively.
Antioxidant activities of the polar subfraction of the essential oil were examined using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), hydroxyl radical-scavenging and lipid peroxidation assays. The essential oils, in particular, and the non-polar subfractions of methanol extracts showed antioxidant activity.
In conclusion, the results indicate that the oils of S. cryptantha and S. multicaulis have the capacity to scavenge free radicals and to inhibit the growth of pathogenic microorganisms. Therefore they could be suitable for using as antimicrobial and antioxidative agents in the food and cosmetic industries.
