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Herbal Extracts and Sebum Control and Other Topics

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: October 4, 2004, from the October 2004 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

page 6 of 11

qs 100.00

Herbal extracts and sebum control: Uchiumi et al. review the activity of herbal extracts on the control of sebum secretion.9 Among the herbal extracts tested, a polyol-soluble licorice extract derived from Glycyrrhiza inflata showed the most potent testosterone 5-alpha-reductase inhibition, androgen receptor binding inhibition, and antimicrobial activities, which are closely related to sebum secretion.
In addition to the findings on polyol-soluble licorice extract, clove extract and peppermint extract showed testosterone 5-alpha-reductase inhibition. Arnica extract and rose fruit extract showed androgen receptor binding inhibition, Alpinia speciosa root extract and scutellaria root extract were estrogen receptor agonists, and sophora root extract showed antimicrobial activity.

Sunscreen Foaming sunscreen compositions: Beiersdorf describes foaming sunscreen compositions containing a particulate organic sunscreen and emulsifier.10 The invention concerns a foaming composition that contains a particulate organic sunscreen and an emulsifier in a container with a pump; the foam is produced by forcing the emulsion with a high velocity through a screen or mesh. Benzotriazole derivative, especially 2,2'-Methylen-bis(6-2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol, are used as sunscreens. The preferred emulsifier is a cetearyl polyglucoside. An example is shown in Formula 6.

Formula 6. Foaming sunscreen10
Glyceryl stearate 0.50%
Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.00
PEG-40 stearate 0.50
Cetearyl polyglucoside (Tego Care CG 90, Goldschmidt) 0.50
Cetyl alcohol 2.50
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 3.00
Ethylhexyl triazone 2.00

2,2'-Methylene-bis(6-2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol

2.00
Titanium dioxide 1.00
Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate 5.00
Cyclomethicone 2.00
PVP hexadecene copolymer 0.50
Glycerin 3.00
Xanthan gum 0.15
Vitamin E acetate 0.50
Alpha-glucosylrutin 0.25
Methylparaben 0.15
Phenoxyethanol 1.00
Fragrance (parfum) 0.20