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Herbal Extracts and Sebum Control and Other Topics

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: October 4, 2004, from the October 2004 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

page 5 of 11

9-Octadecenedioic acid in preparations: Another patent assigned to Beiersdorf describes the use of 9-octadecenedioic acid in cosmetic and dermatological preparations.7 The invention concerns skin care that contains 9-octadecenedioic acid as well as cyclodextrins. An example is shown in Formula 4.

Formula 4. Cosmetics containing 9-octadecenedioic acid7
Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.00%
Myristyl myristate 1.00
Stearyl alcohol 2.00
Cetyl alcohol 1.00
Hydrogenated coco glycerides 2.00
Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate 1.00
Ethylhexyl coco fatty acid ester 3.00
Petrolatum 2.00
Cyclomethicone 4.00
Dicaprylyl ether 1.00
Ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 3.00
Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 1.00
9-Octadecenedioic acid 0.50
Sodium ascorbyl palmitate  0.05
Gamma-cyclodextrin 3.00
Iminodisuccinate sodium salt 0.20
Phenoxyethanol 0.30
Methylparaben 0.30
Propylparaben   0.30
Diazolidinyl urea 0.25
Xanthan gum 0.10
Carbomer 0.05
Glycerin 10.00
Butylene glycol 2.00
Colors 0.05
Perfume qs
Water (aqua)  qs 100.00

Retinoid-containing preparations: BASF discloses retinoid-containing preparations with a water-soluble and an oil-soluble antioxidant.8 The invention concerns retinoid-containing cosmetic, drug or feed products that include a water-soluble and an oil-soluble antioxidant; salts of l-ascorbic acid and alpha-tocopherol are used. Cosmetic preparations are packaged in oxygen-impermeable containers, preferably coated aluminum, in a protecting gas atmosphere. An example is shown in Formula 5.

Formula 5. Retinoid containing skin lotion8
Ceteareth-6 (and) stearyl alcohol

2.50%

Ceteareth-25 2.50
Hydrogenated coco-glyceride 1.50
PEG-40 dodecyl glycol copolymer 3.00
Dimethicone 3.00
Phenethyl dimethicone 2.00
Cyclomethicone 1.00
Cetearyl octanoate 5.00
Avocado oil 1.00
Almond oil  2.00
Wheat germ oil 0.80
Panthenol 1.00
Phytantriol 0.30
Vitamin E acetate 0.30
Propylene glycol 5.00
Perfume qs
Preservative qs
Ascorbic acid 0.20
Caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) retinol (Retinol 15D, BASF) 0.20
Tocopherol 0.10
Water (aqua)