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Herbal Extracts and Sebum Control and Other Topics
By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: October 4, 2004, from the October 2004 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
page 11 of 111. MO Visscher et al, Effect of soaking and natural moisturizing factor on stratum corneum water-handling properties,
J Cosmet Sci 54(3) 289-300 (2003)
2. DE 10,234,257, Self-warming cosmetic cleansing wipes impregnated with polyalcohols, Beiersdorf A-G, Germany
(Feb 5, 2004)
3. JP 2004 35,420, Transparent cleansing cosmetics containing polyglycerin fatty acid esters, Sakamoto Yakuhin
Kogyo Co Ltd, Japan (Feb 5, 2004)
4. WO 2004 10,965, Use of lignans for preventing or treating the signs of aging of the skin, L'Oreal, France (Feb 5,
5. WO 2004 10,966, Cosmetics containing acylglucosamines, Lion Corporation, Japan (Feb 5, 2004)
6. DE 10,233,598, Curcuminoid-containing cosmetic and dermatological preparations, Beiersdorf AG, Germany
7. DE 10,233,599, 9-Octadecenedioic acid-containing cosmetic and dermatological preparations, Beiersdorf AG,
Germany (Feb 12, 2004)
8. WO 2004 12,696, Retinoid-containing preparations with a water-soluble and an oil-soluble antioxidant, BASF
Aktiengesellschaft, Germany (Feb 12, 2004)
9. Y Uchiumi et al, Activity of herbal extracts on the control of sebum secretion, Frag J 32(3) 53-57 (2004) (in
10. EP 1,388,338, Foaming sunscreen composition containing a particulate organic sunscreen and emulsifier,
Beiersdorf AG, Germany (Feb 11, 2004)
11. M Rangarajan et al, Effect of formulation on the topical delivery of alpha-tocopherol, J Cosmet Sci 54(2) 161-174
12. WO 2004 12,694, Clear personal care compositions containing visible capsules, The Gillette Company, USA
(Feb 12, 2004)
13. JP 2004 35,458, Storage-stable transparent liquid cosmetics containing urea and fat-soluble vitamins, Kanebo
Ltd, Japan (Feb 5, 2004)
14. DE 10,235,422, Cosmetic preparations composed of two phases without emulsifiers, Beiersdorf AG, Germany
(Feb 12, 2004)
15. JP 2004 43,383, Water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion compositions containing uniformly dispersed pigment particles,
Kao Corp, Japan (Feb 12, 2004)
16. B Tepe et al, Antimicrobial and antioxidative activities of the essential oils and methanol extracts of Salvia
cryptantha and Salvia multicaulis, Food Chemistry 2004 84(4) 519-525 (2004) (in English)
17. M Regiert et al, Cyclodextrins: an other tool for encapsulation, SOFW Journal 129(6) 2, 4, 6, 8 (2003) (in
18. Soo-Jin Park et al, Microcapsules for fragrances and cosmetics, Microspheres, Microcapsules & Liposomes 6
157-198 (2003) (in English)
Soaking and natural moisturization on the stratum corneum: Visscher et al. have studied the effect of soaking and natural moisturizing factor on stratum corneum water-handling properties.1 Stratum corneum (SC) hydration is partially regulated by water-soluble molecules, i.e., the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) that is associated with the corneocytes. Routine water exposure such as bathing may deplete NMF and alter the SC water-handling properties. The authors determined the effects of bathing and solvent extraction on the volar forearm skin of 11 healthy volunteers.
Acetone/ether (A/E) was used to remove surface and upper SC lipids. Adjacent sites were soaked for 10 minutes or treated with the A/E-plus-soak combination. Subsequently, an NMF formulation was applied to the treated sites, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), hydration and moisture accumulation rate (MAT) were measured. A/E extraction increased TEWL, but did not effect MAT. Soaking produced a short-term increase in TEWL, followed by a decrease, and substantially reduced MAT, an effect that was maintained for 5 hours.
NMF application significantly decreased TEWL and significantly increased MAT for all sites. The replacement experiment suggests that the MAT reduction occurred as a result of extraction of hygroscopic NMF components. The effects of soaking and NMF application are more readily detected by the MAT technique, whereas TEWL is more sensitive to A/E extraction. The results support the use of multiple assessments of barrier function and raise questions about the effects of cumulative repeated water exposure on SC function.