Research in Cosmetic Valley

By: Eric Perrier, LVMH, et al.

Posted: February 19, 2010

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What are the biggest factors that impact R&D?
The biggest factor that impacts R&D is the rapid advancement of international research and techniques. R&D also must constantly consider and be aware of new regulatory matters worldwide, especially in Europe and Asia, which implies a relevant need for economic intelligence resources. Furthermore, the participation of our scientists in various international congresses and seminars helps to build new possible partnerships for future projects.

What recent developments in R&D have impacted or will impact the cosmetics industry?
Thanks to DNA micro-array, PCR, QPCR, flux cytometry and immunohistochemistry, we have obtained new data in the field of antiaging of the skin, on the importance of the skin stem cells’ role and longevity factors (sirtuins and genes), and on the importance of new skin detoxifying processes. Also thanks to a better understanding of physicochemical interactions inside very complex products such as foundations or lipsticks, it is now possible to introduce high concentrations of skin care active ingredients into the latter. These results have given birth to new product developments, such as those recently marketed by the cosmetic companies of the LVMH Group (Louis Vuitton—Moët Hennessy), that are Parfums Christian Dior, Guerlain and Parfums Givenchy.

by Michel Grisel, University of Le Havre:

What recent discoveries or advances in chemistry could impact cosmetics R&D?
Cosmetic science has a long history of discovery and innovation from areas including biology, chemistry, and physics. For decades, scientists dealing with both fundamental and applied research have brought innovative concepts to the cosmetic community. As an example, among the latest emerging technologies, nano-science could be employed to improve product efficacy; however, it is also subject to questions regarding its impact on both human health and the environment.

Another advance relates to increasing interest for natural and bio-based ingredients; as a consequence of new environmental considerations and consumer preferences, efforts are under way to use “clean chemistry” to develop new ingredients derived from natural and renewable resources while respecting both biodiversity and sustainable development.