Technically Speaking: Formulation Technologies and Other Topics

Mar 1, 2007 | Contact Author | By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
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Title: Technically Speaking: Formulation Technologies and Other Topics
skinx massagex UVx ROSx sunscreenx hair growthx oral carex ap/deox plant extractsx
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Keywords: skin | massage | UV | ROS | sunscreen | hair growth | oral care | ap/deo | plant extracts

Abstract: This column discusses the latest technology surrounding skin care, hair care, oral care, AP/DEO and sunscreen formulation. In addition, interesting raw material introductions for the personal care industry are also reviewed.

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Skin and Skin Care 
Skin-warming massage compositions:
 Kosei Co. Ltd., Japan, describes skin-warming massage compositions containing glycerin, glycerin-modified silicones and heat-generating salts. The compositions consist of a first phase containing glycerin and a glycerin-modified silicone, and a second phase containing a cosmetically applicable salt that generates heat by dissolving in water, wherein the first and second phases are mixed before application. Either phase may further contain spherical powders. An example formula includes a first phase containing 50% glycerin, polyglycerin-modified silicone, fragrance, preservative, colorant and water; and a second phase containing calcium chloride, colorant and a preservative. The massage composition is said to spread smoothly on the skin and have excellent storage stability.

Ai-luros in skin care: Suemoto et al. discuss the useful functions of ai-luros in cosmetic applications. The authors examined a mixture of a water extract from the leaf and stem of Polygonum tinctorium louros (indigo) extract and 1,3-butylene glycol and found, at a 2.5% concentration of ai-luros, that the mixture exhibited a skin whitening effect by suppressing approximately 40% of melanin formation by B-16 melanoma cells. Ai-luros was not found to inhibit tyrosinase; however, treatment of B-16 melanoma cells with the material resulted in a reduction of tyrosinase protein in the cells. Furthermore, ai-luros suppressed the formation of prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) and nitric oxide (NO) by 0.78–6.25% in a mouse macrophage cell line. It also showed a 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH)-radical scavenging effect, superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity, and an elastase inhibitory effect. Thus, ai-luros could be useful in skin care for its skin-whitening, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects, and applicable in antiaging products.

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Footnotes [Fox 122(3)]

a Hema’Tîte (proposed INCI: Hematite extract) is a product of LIBiol.

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