From Herbal Skin-firming Extracts to Novel Saccharide Esters: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: October 1, 2008, from the October 2008 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

Skin and Skin Care
Herbal extracts for skin firming: Sommerfeld reports1 on the clinical efficacy of a blenda of herbal extracts—including Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary), Centella asiatica (gotu kola), Curcuma longa (turmeric) and dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE)—to promote skin firmness. The blend was tested for firming and elasticity benefits in photo-aged facial skin via a randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind, split-face study in 28 women aged 34–67 years. Treatments were administered with the tested blend and a placebo for four weeks. Skin firmness and elasticity were evaluated using the speed of propagation of ultrasound shear waves in the skin as end point. The study was completed by 25 women.

No immediate effect was observed with the tested herbal extract blend; however, the four-week treatment resulted in a significantly reduced propagation speed, indicating increased skin firmness. A self evaluation was conducted by the test subjects to determine observable treatment effects and the herbal extract blend was rated significantly higher than the placebo. The clinical evaluation also showed the blend to provide better treatment results than the placebo.

Tolerance to the herbal extract blend was generally good. However, three women experiencing mild irritant contact dermatitis did not complete the study. Overall, the results showed that the herbal extract blend increaseed skin firmness both objectively and subjectively. Further studies are warranted.

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