New Raw Materials or New Uses

Aug 1, 2008 | Contact Author | By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
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Title: New Raw Materials or New Uses
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Skin Care 
Anti-acne cosmetics: In a recent review, Akaza reports that sodium dl-α-tocopheryl phosphate (VEP) controls the predominant type Propionibacterium acnes in acne vulgaris.1 P. acnes is thought to be one of the most important factors involved in the pathogenesis of acne vulgaris. Various kinds of vitamin preparations are widely used as adjuvants in the clinical treatment of acne vulgaris; however, the mechanisms of the therapeutic actions of these vitamins have not yet been clarified. Therefore, Akaza studied the antimicrobial activities of vitamins B2, B6, C, E and their derivatives against P. acnes in the clinical treatment of acne vulgaris.

VEP showed the strongest antimicrobial activity against P. acnes. In particular, the antimicrobial activity of VEP was more effective against P. acnes DNA-type 3. Of all the various DNA-types of P. acnes, DNA-type 3 is considered to have the most influence on the pathogenesis of acne vulgaris. The mechanism of the antimicrobial activity of VEP against P. acnes was via destruction of the cell membrane, the same mechanism used by surfactants. Using lotions containing VEP for four weeks reduced the number of P. acnes lesions and also reduced indications of inflammatory acne vulgaris. These results suggest that anti-acne cosmetics containing VEP are effective for reducing and preventing acne vulgaris.

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Fox: New Raw Materials Footnotes

a X-Tend 226 (INCI: 2-Pheneylethyl benzoate) is a product of ISP. X-Tend is a registered trademark.
b Uvinul T150 (INCI: Ethylhexyl triazone) is a product of BASF. Uvinul is a registered trademark.
c Tinosorb S (INCI: bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine) is a product of Ciba. Tinosorb is a registered trademark.

d Ceraphyl 41 (INCI: C12-C15 Alkyl lactate) is a product of  ISP. Ceraphyl is a registered trademark. 

Formula 1. Skin pigmentation enhancer

 Formula 1. Skin pigmentation enhancer4

Formula 2. Acidic hair dye

 Formula 2. Acidic hair dye7

Formula 3. Direct hair dye

 Formula 3. Direct hair dye8

Formula 4. Foundation lotion

 Formula 4. Foundation lotion9

Formula 5. Foundation lotion

 Formula 5. Foundation lotion10

Formula 6. Powder foundation

Formula 6. Powder foundation11 

Formula 7. Sprayable suntan emulsion

 Formula 7. Sprayable suntan emulsion13

Formula 8. Sunscreen gel

Formula 8. Sunscreen gel14 

Formula 9. Hair cream

 Formula 9. Hair cream16

Formula 10. W/O emulsion with organic-modified clay minerals

Formula 10. W/O emulsion with organic-modified clay minerals17 

Formula 11. O/W cosmetic lotion

 Formula 11. O/W cosmetic lotion18

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