Penetration of Cosmetics Into and Through the Stratum Corneum

Feb 1, 2013 | Contact Author | By: Ada Polla, Alchimie Forever
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Title: Penetration of Cosmetics Into and Through the Stratum Corneum
penetrationx stratum corneum (SC)x activesx pathwaysx liposomesx vehiclex
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Keywords: penetration | stratum corneum (SC) | actives | pathways | liposomes | vehicle

Abstract: The penetration routes of substances through the stratum corneum and how these transport pathways function are becoming better understood. Despite this progress, however, the penetration mechanisms of cosmetic formulations remain mysterious. This overview presents current knowledge on the various pathways of penetration, and suggests that even if cosmetic formulations penetrate no deeper than the surface, their efficacy may still be optimal.

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A Polla, Penetration of cosmetics into and through the stratum corneum, Cosm & Toil 128(2) 92-96 (Feb 2013)

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One of the recurring debates in cosmetics development relates to the penetration of ingredients. How do manufacturers ensure optimal penetration for efficacy? What is the optimal penetration? How can water, lipophilic molecules, liposomes or nanoparticles penetrate through the stratum corneum (SC) and reach deep into the epidermis and below? This overview takes a somewhat different approach to the question of penetration by focusing on the SC, the first layer implicated by application of topical products to the skin. It also investigates how molecules are able to penetrate this outermost layer and stresses the fact that even if they penetrate no deeper, they play an essential role in skin health and youthfulness.

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This is an excerpt of an article from GCI Magazine. The full version can be found here.

 

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Figure 1. Various pathways of penetration through the stratum corneum

Figure 1. Various pathways of penetration through the stratum corneum

There are various routes for molecules to passively diffuse through the SC: intercellular, trans-cellular, intrafollicular and the polar pore.

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