Atopic Dermatitis—Part I: Early Research and Causes

Mar 1, 2015Rosa Marie Andersen, MD; and Howard I. Maibach, MD, University of California at San Francisco University of California at San Francisco, San Francisco, USA

This column is the first in a two-part series on atopic dermatitis (AD), a common, chronic inflammatory skin disease. Here, the authors will review early research and delve into causes of AD to support a future column on AD criteria and investigation.

Research Suggests a Need for After-sun Sunscreen

Feb 24, 2015

According to a report from Yale, the damage caused by UV radiation continues hours after the sun exposure occurred. In the described study, melanocytes generated CPDs both immediately and hours after UV exposure had ended. This may suggest the need for “evening-after” sunscreen, designed to block energy-transfer.

Researchers Link Skin Cell Molecule with Immune Response

Feb 11, 2015

Researchers from Melbourne, Monash and Harvard Universities published new findings on how immune cells in the skin sense foreign invaders and react with inflammation or alergic reactions to protect the body.

ROS Suspected to be Beneficial to Wound Healing

Jan 2, 2015

Free radicals might not be all bad, according to researchers from the University of California, San Diego. Andrew Chishold, PhD, and his fellow researchers found reactive oxygen species (ROS) to be beneficial to wound healing.

Sunscreen Across the Spectrum?

Dec 1, 2014

Newer to the scene are products that protect skin against infrared radiation, as well as research on the effects of high energy visible and visible light. In response, at the C&T Summit, Jürgen Lademann, PhD, will present "Should Sunscreens Protect Across the Whole Solar Spectrum?"

Olay Conducts Clinical Trial On Pollution's Skin Impact

Nov 19, 2014

Pollution is bad news for the skin regardless of lifestyle choices, according to a study by Olay scientists and Beijing's General Hospital of the Air Force. The two collaborated to study environmental factors and skin in a city well known for its poor air quality.

Researchers Find Fat Burning Action in Adenosine

Oct 28, 2014

Researchers from the University Hospital Bonn have reported that adenosine may stimulate brown fat to burn off undesirable white fat cells.

Skin Aging at the Functional Proteomics Level: Elastin as a Marker

Aug 25, 2014Nava Dayan, PhD, Dr. Nava Dayan LLC; and Matthew Kuruc, Biotech Support Group LLC

There is general agreement on elastin’s role in skin health, aging and appearance, but no method has yet elucidated how it degrades with aging when challenged by sun exposure or other means. This paper reviews two inconsistent theories in the literature, degradation and buildup, and highlights potential methods to marry the two. It also suggests proteomics as a method for further investigation.

An Approach to Develop Cosmetics for Multi-tonal Brazilian Skin

Aug 25, 2014Doraci Aleixo Maciel, Dilene Foggi Bet, Edilson Luiz Rocha, Flavia Bogo Ribas and Valéria Maria Di Mambro, Grupo Boticário; and Érica de Oliveira Monteiro, E.M. Dermatologia

In Brazil, people have many different colored skin tones, and women often struggle to match makeup shades to their skin color. This paper describes an exploratory study of hundreds of volunteers that was conducted to understand Brazilian women's skin color, ultimately to develop a makeup line for this widely diverse market.

Nature-derived Care for Sensitive and Difficult-to-treat Skin Types

Jul 1, 2014Katerina Steventon, PhD, FaceWorkshops, LLC

A number of consumers can be classified as having difficult-to-treat skin types, being both dry and oily and prone to periodical inflammation in specific areas. New active ingredients derived from nature provide gentle yet efficacious solutions to address these needs. These skin types and solutions are addressed herein.

Stanford Study Connects Stem Cell Protein to Human Hair Color

Jun 4, 2014

According to a study by Stanford University School of Medicine, a molecule crucial to stem cell functioning plays a major role in controlling human hair color.

Literature Review: Damage, Growth and Conditioning in Hair

May 20, 2014Rachel L. Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries

This survey of recent literature relates to assessing hair damage, reducing dye allergy, increasing and inhibiting hair growth, cleansing and conditioning hair, and more. The papers are presented as food for thought in the early stages of the product development process, and may warrant deeper investigation.

Klotho Gene Variant Found to Enhance Cognition

May 14, 2014

According to new research from Pennsylvania State University, a variant of the Klotho gene, which relates to lifespan, has been connected with improved cognitive functioning. This pathway has been the focus of recent anti-aging research for cosmetics.

Fatty Acid Bile Acid Conjugates—Hypothesis for Skin Anti-aging and Anti-acne Effects

May 1, 2014Nava Dayan, PhD; Dr. Nava Dayan LLC, NJ, USA; and Maya Halperin, MD; Galderm Therapeutics, Tel Aviv, Israel

Fatty acid bile acid conjugates (FABACs) have been found to affect skin by enhancing ATP-binding cassette (ABCA1) cholesterol transporter and competitively inhibiting stearoyl-CoA desaturase (SCD1) enzyme. Based on the mechanisms involved, detailed here, the authors developed a new FABAC and tested it in vitro. Results suggest its potential as an anti-aging and anti-acne active.

Molecular Biology in Future Skin and Hair Care

May 1, 2014Howard Epstein, PhD, EMD Chemicals, Philadelphia, USA

Techniques developed in the field of molecular biology are currently being used to screen cosmeceutical ingredients for skin and hair care applications. New findings are published on a daily basis, providing insight with respect to future innovations for skin and hair health and appearance. Several relevant developments are reviewed here.

Shiseido to Open Center for Hair Regeneration Research

Apr 20, 2014

The Shiseido Cell-Processing and Expansion Center (SPEC) is set to open on May 1, 2014, and will centralize the research and development of regenerative hair treatments.

New Findings for Anti-aging in Hair and Scalp

Apr 16, 2014

Anti-aging hair care products address concerns such as thinning, coloring, breakage and drying. At the Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit, an entire hair research track will feature speakers Popescu, Davis, Kazin and Westgate on new biological and chemical considerations for this growing market.

Columbia Researchers Uncover Touch Sensory Mechanisms

Apr 15, 2014

A study published in Nature highlights how a team of Columbia University Medical Center researchers have uncovered the mechanisms behind touch; i.e., how humans feel details and textures.

Researchers Identify Pathway to Regulate Telomeres

Apr 7, 2014Cosmetics & Toiletries editors

Cancer researchers at the Salk Institute for Biological Studies in La Jolla, California, have identified a mechanism involved in the lengthening of telomeres; cosmetic researchers often look to this field for novel answers to skin aging.

Carotenoids for Dietary Photoprotection

Mar 20, 2014Maxwell Xiong, The Waterford School, Sandy, UT, USA; Howard I. Maibach, MD, University of California at San Francisco, CA, USA

Sun exposure leads to the production of free radicals in skin and to damage to elastin and collagen, resulting in premature aging. Studies of consuming carotenoid-rich fruits and vegetables have shown lower incidences of skin pathology. Carotenoids are among the most efficient natural scavengers of free radicals and may be used as oral sun protection, as is discussed here.

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