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Types of Skin Aging
By: Katerina Steventon, PhD, FaceWorkshops
Posted: May 2, 2013, from the May 2013 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
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Postmenopausal skin aging is often neglected in the “classical” aging concept, as its impact is difficult to estimate. In women, intrinsic and postmenopausal aging are linked. There is an array of technologies designed to aid skin changes from intrinsic aging or menopause, e.g., keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation and repair of the DEJ. Examples of actives clinically tested, although on forearms and not facial skin, include c-xyloside, which was shown to repair the DEJ,11 and bifidobacterium-fermented soy milk extract, which improved skin elasticity.12 In the absence of advanced diagnostics, preventive measures should target each of these processes.
Skin aging is an interplay of the different types of aging that differs between individuals; the best approach entails the use of multifunctional active ingredients that address more than one type. Also, shifting consumer attitudes toward a more holistic approach to skin health represents the next educational challenge for the skin care industry.
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1. Anti-aging, in-cosmetics 2013, www.in-cosmetics.com/en/sessions/1325/anti-aging (Accessed Mar 10, 2013)
2. DA Gunn et al, Why some women look young for their age, PLoS ONE 4(12) e8021, doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0008021, www.plosone.org/article/info:doi/10.1371/journal.pone.0008021 (Accessed Mar 10, 2013)
3. P Quatresooz, C Piérard-Franchimont, M Kharfi, K Al Rustom, CA Chian, R Garcia, MR Kamoun, GE Piérard, Skin in maturity: The endocrine and neuroendocrine pathways, Int J Cos Sci, 29(6) (2007) 1–7, http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00350.x/full (Accessed Mar 10, 2013)
4. AK Langton, MJ Sherratt, CE Griffiths and RE Watson, A new wrinkle on old skin: The role of elastic fibres in skin aging, Int J Cosmet Sci (2010) www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20572890 (Accessed Mar 10, 2013)
5. D Model, Smoker’s face: An underrated clinical sign? Br Med J (Clin Res Ed) 291(6511) 1760–1762 (Dec 21–28 1985) www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/3936573 (Accessed Mar 10, 2013)
6. C Piérard-Franchimont, F Cornil, J Dehavay, F Deleixhe-Mauhin, B Letot and GE Piérard, Climacteric skin ageing of the face—A prospective longitudinal comparative trial on the effect of oral hormone replacement therapy, Maturitas Jun 21 32(2) 87–93 (1999), www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10465376 (Accessed Mar 10, 2013)
7. MG Shah and HI Maibach, Estrogen and skin. An overview, Am J Clin Dermatol 2001 2(3) 143–150, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11705091 (Accessed Mar 10, 2013)
8. GE Piérard, The quandary of climacteric skin aging, Dermatology 193(4) 273–274 (1996), www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8993948 (Accessed Mar 10, 2013)
9. G Nole and AW Johnson, An analysis of cumulative lifetime solar ultraviolet radiation exposure and the benefits of daily sun protection, Dermatol Ther 17 Suppl 1:57–62 (2004) www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14728700 (Accessed Mar 10, 2013)
10. GE Piérard, Skin ageing, a fresh look at an old story, J Cosmet Dermatol Jan 3(1) 1 (2004), www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17163940 (Accessed Mar 10, 2013)
11. C Deloche, AM Minodo, BA Bernard, F Bernerd, F Salas, J Garnier and E Tancrède, Effect of c-xyloside on morphogenesis of the dermal epidermal junction in aged female skin. An ultrastructural pilot study, Eur J Dermatol Mar–Apr 21(2) (2011)
12. K Miyazaki, T Hanamizu, T Sone, K Chiba, T Kinoshita and S Yoshikawa, Topical application of Bifidobacterium-fermented soy milk extract containing genistein and daidzein improves rheological and physiological properties of skin, J Cosmet Sci Sep–Oct 55(5) 473–479 (2004)
Secrets to staying young: Live honestly, avoid too much sun, and lie about your age.
Aging Skin: Current and Therapeutic Strategies, a reference book by Linda D. Rhein, PhD and Joachim W. Fluhr, MD is aimed at providing the latest information and directions of future strategies to treat and prevent skin aging.
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