Most Recent in Research

Patent Picks—Nanoparticle Anti-acne, Elastin Digest, Thermo-regulated Cosmetics, Rebaudioside A and More in Skin Care

Sep 19, 2014

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features recent inventions related to repairing, restructuring and other novel effects in skin care.

Topical Delivery of Skin Care Ingredients

Sep 17, 2014Shyam Gupta, PhD, Bioderm Research, Scottsdale, AZ USA

Incorporating performance ingredients in a formula does not guarantee they will penetrate the skin and deliver the claimed benefits. This review presents topical delivery approaches introduced in the past five years to improve the efficacy of benefit ingredients for skin care. Examples include molecular, carrier and Trojan horse delivery. Non-conventional delivery systems also are described.

Patent Picks—Improving Differentiation, Penetration and Optical Benefits in Skin Care, and More

Sep 2, 2014

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features recent inventions related to sensory, repair and formulating strategies for skin care.

Skin Aging at the Functional Proteomics Level: Elastin as a Marker

Aug 25, 2014Nava Dayan, PhD, Dr. Nava Dayan LLC; and Matthew Kuruc, Biotech Support Group LLC

There is general agreement on elastin’s role in skin health, aging and appearance, but no method has yet elucidated how it degrades with aging when challenged by sun exposure or other means. This paper reviews two inconsistent theories in the literature, degradation and buildup, and highlights potential methods to marry the two. It also suggests proteomics as a method for further investigation.

An Approach to Develop Cosmetics for Multi-tonal Brazilian Skin

Aug 25, 2014Doraci Aleixo Maciel, Dilene Foggi Bet, Edilson Luiz Rocha, Flavia Bogo Ribas and Valéria Maria Di Mambro, Grupo Boticário; and Érica de Oliveira Monteiro, E.M. Dermatologia

In Brazil, people have many different colored skin tones, and women often struggle to match makeup shades to their skin color. This paper describes an exploratory study of hundreds of volunteers that was conducted to understand Brazilian women's skin color, ultimately to develop a makeup line for this widely diverse market.

Patent Picks—Cinnamon/​Lemongrass/​Lavender Cotton, Honeysuckle, Sunflower and More Preservatives

Aug 18, 2014

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features inventions issued in the recent months related to preserving cosmetics and personal care formulas.

Nano 'Vaults' Hold Potential for Delivery

Aug 14, 2014

A recent report by The Scientist describes how nano-sized "vaults" are making their way into biomedicine, which calls to mind questions of their potential for personal care applications.

Patent Picks—Sulfate-free Clarity, Rheology, Scalp Care and More

Aug 6, 2014

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features the latest patents related to sulfate-free products, including technologies to improve their characteristics, and some that simply provide sulfate-free formula examples.

Patent Picks—Nanoparticle Diagnostics/Toxicology; Antioxidants for Skin Benefits/Product Stability; and More

Jul 22, 2014

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features the latest inventions related to skin health, safety, treatment and care.

Patent Picks—Water-soluble Essential Oils, Antimicrobial Peptidomimetics, Bamboo and Scutellaria, and Other 'Green' Solutions

Jul 9, 2014

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features the latest inventions related to 'green' technologies for cosmetics and personal care, including nature-derived, mild and eco-friendly solutions.

Deriving Renewable Squalane from Sugarcane

Jul 1, 2014Derek McPhee, PhD; Armelle Pin; Lance Kizer, PhD; and Loren Perelman, PhD; Amyris Inc., Emeryville, CA, USA

Commercial use of squalane has been constrained by an inconsistent supply and resulting price volatility, but modern biotechnology has been able to leverage enzyme-catalyzed chemical reactions found in nature coupled with traditional chemical processing steps to create a high-quality source of renewable squalane.

Nature-derived Care for Sensitive and Difficult-to-treat Skin Types

Jul 1, 2014Katerina Steventon, PhD, FaceWorkshops, LLC

A number of consumers can be classified as having difficult-to-treat skin types, being both dry and oily and prone to periodical inflammation in specific areas. New active ingredients derived from nature provide gentle yet efficacious solutions to address these needs. These skin types and solutions are addressed herein.

Patent Picks—Adjustable Conditioning, Antibacterial Hair Removal, NIR Hair Growth and More

Jun 24, 2014

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features the latest inventions related to hair care, including adjustable conditioning, improved dyeing, infrared growth, antibacterial removal and more.

Stanford Study Connects Stem Cell Protein to Human Hair Color

Jun 4, 2014

According to a study by Stanford University School of Medicine, a molecule crucial to stem cell functioning plays a major role in controlling human hair color.

A Hair Dyeing Solution for the Dye-allergic Consumer

Jun 1, 2014Nicholas Blickenstaff and Garrett Coman, University of California at San Francisco and University of Utah, Salt Lake City; Ashley Edwards, Touro University, Vallejo, California; and Howard I. Maibach, MD, University of California at San Francisco

This article describes how to identify allergic contact dermatitis resulting from hair dye, and outlines prevention principles for those who wish to continue dyeing their hair despite being allergic—with clear implications for those formulating these products. The main sensitizers in hair dye are discussed, along with techniques to minimize exposure to these allergenic substances.

What’s Happening in Hair Damage, Protection and Repair

Jun 1, 2014Robert Lochhead, PhD, and Heather Pearson, The University of Southern Mississippi, Hattiesburg, MS, USA

Hair damage from environmental and cosmetic treatments is a continuing concern. Efforts are under way to understand hair degradation and devise means to protect and repair hair from the damage. This short review is an attempt to summarize recent advances toward protecting and repairing human hair.

Patent Picks—Repigmenting Hair, Electrolysis Hair-shaping, Dense Chitosan and More in Hair

May 28, 2014Cosmetics & Toiletries editors

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features the latest inventions related to hair care, including pigmentation, fragrance, sun protection, hair shaping and more.

Literature Review: Damage, Growth and Conditioning in Hair

May 20, 2014Rachel L. Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries

This survey of recent literature relates to assessing hair damage, reducing dye allergy, increasing and inhibiting hair growth, cleansing and conditioning hair, and more. The papers are presented as food for thought in the early stages of the product development process, and may warrant deeper investigation.

3D Printing 'Popping Up' in Personal Care

May 16, 2014Rachel L. Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries

Three-dimensional (3D) printing is popping up in many fields, including in cosmetics and personal care development; from behind the scenes, in R&D package concept labs, to presentations at in-cosmetics and the April SCS Symposium—even at home, in one former Harvard student's printable cosmetic device concept.

Klotho Gene Variant Found to Enhance Cognition

May 14, 2014

According to new research from Pennsylvania State University, a variant of the Klotho gene, which relates to lifespan, has been connected with improved cognitive functioning. This pathway has been the focus of recent anti-aging research for cosmetics.

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Apply Topically: A Guide to Formulating

Apply Topically: A Guide to Formulating

Finally! This book offers practical approach to the formulation chemist’s day-to-day endeavors by: addressing the innumerable challenges facing the chemist both in design and at bench, such as formulating with/for specific properties; offering valuable “tips” to troubleshooting issues regarding ingredient selection and interaction, regulatory concerns that must be addressed early in development, and the extrapolation of preservative systems; exploring the advantages and limitations of raw materials; addressing scale-up and pilot production process and concerns; and much more.Order your copy today.

Coloring the Cosmetic World

Coloring the Cosmetic World book cover

Finally! A practical resource on cosmetic pigments in one book. Edwin B. Faulkner offers a comprehensive look at what goes into selecting colors for decorative cosmetic products. Order your copy today.