Most Recent in Research

Assessing Beauty By Facial Topography, Color and Symmetry

Oct 1, 2014

The notion of “aging gracefully” no longer applies, as consumers are constantly judging each other’s facial features to assess their beauty. Here, based on recent studies, it is suggested that facial topography, symmetry and color dictate those assessments. While the cosmetics industry can lessen some of these factors, some are a result of biology or lifestyle.

Patent Picks—Improving Soft Focus, Reducing Sensitivity, Tightening, Penetrating and More for Skin Care

Sep 30, 2014

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features recent inventions related to color cosmetics, actives, immune response, foams, skin-tightening, delivery and more for skin care.

Problems with Skin Protectants Part I: A Discussion

Sep 25, 2014Giovanni Pantini, PhD, Studio 24, Milan, Italy

Problems with skin protectants include unsatisfactory performance, poor prospects for improvement, and the lack of methods for evaluation. Such problems are introduced here, while insights in the area of perfluoropolyethers and concepts to push skin protectants to new efficacies will be discussed in follow-up articles.

Practical Foam Science

Sep 23, 2014Steven Abbott, PhD, Steven Abbott TCNF Ltd., Ipswich, and University of Leeds, West Yorkshire, UK

Foam science can be confusing, so the temptation is to formulate by trial and error. However, understanding the science behind key aspects of foam—i.e., elasticity, DLVO Theory stability, Ostwald ripening, draining and antifoams—and applying this will fast-track foam development. These concepts are detailed here.

Patent Picks—Nanoparticle Anti-acne, Elastin Digest, Thermo-regulated Cosmetics, Rebaudioside A and More in Skin Care

Sep 19, 2014

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features recent inventions related to repairing, restructuring and other novel effects in skin care.

Topical Delivery of Skin Care Ingredients

Sep 17, 2014Shyam Gupta, PhD, Bioderm Research, Scottsdale, AZ USA

Incorporating performance ingredients in a formula does not guarantee they will penetrate the skin and deliver the claimed benefits. This review presents topical delivery approaches introduced in the past five years to improve the efficacy of benefit ingredients for skin care. Examples include molecular, carrier and Trojan horse delivery. Non-conventional delivery systems also are described.

Patent Picks—Improving Differentiation, Penetration and Optical Benefits in Skin Care, and More

Sep 2, 2014

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features recent inventions related to sensory, repair and formulating strategies for skin care.

Skin Aging at the Functional Proteomics Level: Elastin as a Marker

Aug 25, 2014Nava Dayan, PhD, Dr. Nava Dayan LLC; and Matthew Kuruc, Biotech Support Group LLC

There is general agreement on elastin’s role in skin health, aging and appearance, but no method has yet elucidated how it degrades with aging when challenged by sun exposure or other means. This paper reviews two inconsistent theories in the literature, degradation and buildup, and highlights potential methods to marry the two. It also suggests proteomics as a method for further investigation.

An Approach to Develop Cosmetics for Multi-tonal Brazilian Skin

Aug 25, 2014Doraci Aleixo Maciel, Dilene Foggi Bet, Edilson Luiz Rocha, Flavia Bogo Ribas and Valéria Maria Di Mambro, Grupo Boticário; and Érica de Oliveira Monteiro, E.M. Dermatologia

In Brazil, people have many different colored skin tones, and women often struggle to match makeup shades to their skin color. This paper describes an exploratory study of hundreds of volunteers that was conducted to understand Brazilian women's skin color, ultimately to develop a makeup line for this widely diverse market.

Patent Picks—Cinnamon/​Lemongrass/​Lavender Cotton, Honeysuckle, Sunflower and More Preservatives

Aug 18, 2014

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features inventions issued in the recent months related to preserving cosmetics and personal care formulas.

Nano 'Vaults' Hold Potential for Delivery

Aug 14, 2014

A recent report by The Scientist describes how nano-sized "vaults" are making their way into biomedicine, which calls to mind questions of their potential for personal care applications.

Patent Picks—Sulfate-free Clarity, Rheology, Scalp Care and More

Aug 6, 2014

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features the latest patents related to sulfate-free products, including technologies to improve their characteristics, and some that simply provide sulfate-free formula examples.

Patent Picks—Nanoparticle Diagnostics/Toxicology; Antioxidants for Skin Benefits/Product Stability; and More

Jul 22, 2014

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features the latest inventions related to skin health, safety, treatment and care.

Patent Picks—Water-soluble Essential Oils, Antimicrobial Peptidomimetics, Bamboo and Scutellaria, and Other 'Green' Solutions

Jul 9, 2014

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features the latest inventions related to 'green' technologies for cosmetics and personal care, including nature-derived, mild and eco-friendly solutions.

Deriving Renewable Squalane from Sugarcane

Jul 1, 2014Derek McPhee, PhD; Armelle Pin; Lance Kizer, PhD; and Loren Perelman, PhD; Amyris Inc., Emeryville, CA, USA

Commercial use of squalane has been constrained by an inconsistent supply and resulting price volatility, but modern biotechnology has been able to leverage enzyme-catalyzed chemical reactions found in nature coupled with traditional chemical processing steps to create a high-quality source of renewable squalane.

Nature-derived Care for Sensitive and Difficult-to-treat Skin Types

Jul 1, 2014Katerina Steventon, PhD, FaceWorkshops, LLC

A number of consumers can be classified as having difficult-to-treat skin types, being both dry and oily and prone to periodical inflammation in specific areas. New active ingredients derived from nature provide gentle yet efficacious solutions to address these needs. These skin types and solutions are addressed herein.

Patent Picks—Adjustable Conditioning, Antibacterial Hair Removal, NIR Hair Growth and More

Jun 24, 2014

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features the latest inventions related to hair care, including adjustable conditioning, improved dyeing, infrared growth, antibacterial removal and more.

Stanford Study Connects Stem Cell Protein to Human Hair Color

Jun 4, 2014

According to a study by Stanford University School of Medicine, a molecule crucial to stem cell functioning plays a major role in controlling human hair color.

What’s Happening in Hair Damage, Protection and Repair

Jun 1, 2014Robert Lochhead, PhD, and Heather Pearson, The University of Southern Mississippi, Hattiesburg, MS, USA

Hair damage from environmental and cosmetic treatments is a continuing concern. Efforts are under way to understand hair degradation and devise means to protect and repair hair from the damage. This short review is an attempt to summarize recent advances toward protecting and repairing human hair.

Patent Picks—Repigmenting Hair, Electrolysis Hair-shaping, Dense Chitosan and More in Hair

May 28, 2014Cosmetics & Toiletries editors

Patent Picks are compiled by the editors from publicly available sources. This edition features the latest inventions related to hair care, including pigmentation, fragrance, sun protection, hair shaping and more.

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Apply Topically: A Guide to Formulating

Apply Topically: A Guide to Formulating

Finally! This book offers practical approach to the formulation chemist’s day-to-day endeavors by: addressing the innumerable challenges facing the chemist both in design and at bench, such as formulating with/for specific properties; offering valuable “tips” to troubleshooting issues regarding ingredient selection and interaction, regulatory concerns that must be addressed early in development, and the extrapolation of preservative systems; exploring the advantages and limitations of raw materials; addressing scale-up and pilot production process and concerns; and much more.Order your copy today.

Coloring the Cosmetic World

Coloring the Cosmetic World book cover

Finally! A practical resource on cosmetic pigments in one book. Edwin B. Faulkner offers a comprehensive look at what goes into selecting colors for decorative cosmetic products. Order your copy today.