Testing in Cosmetic Valley

By: Elian Lati, Pascal Svinareff, Marc Feuilloley and Patrick Beau

Posted: February 19, 2010

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What technologies enable cosmetics R&D to test for the skin penetration of products?
For testing skin penetration, we use human skin explants in permeation studies. Additionally, in order to determine the skin irritation of chemical products and cosmetics, we use an in vitro model of reconstructed human epidermis, a model validated by ECVAM as an alternative method to animal testing. With partners, we also have developed a soft prediction method for the evaluation of skin sensitization as well as methods to assess skin sensibilization. Such methods allow cosmetic firms to choose safe products for their formulations.

What external factors/concerns have affected the field of testing?
Primarily REACH, concerns for allergies, and new technologies from our clients.

What test methods are on the horizon, and what consumer concerns could impact this area?
Liquid chromatography in tandem with a mass spectrometer (HPLC-MS-MS) and radioactivity are on the rise and currently being used to evaluate skin permeation and absorption. An overall consumer concern and thus objective of penetration studies is to reduce allergic reactions.

by Marc Feuilloley, ADIPpharm:

What recent advances in microbiology testing affect the development of cosmetic products?
In the microbiology field, principal advances have been generated via interdisciplinary approaches, such as the identification of inter-kingdom communication—i.e., the exchange of messages between bacteria and human cells. New tools for imaging, such as confocal microscopy and biochemical characterization including mass spectrometry-based bacterial identification, also derive from other scientific fields, and advances such as the emergence of cold decontamination techniques, e.g., pulsed light decontamination, also represent a great opportunity for the improvement of cosmetics production.