Finalists Announced for the 2012 Cosmetics & Toiletries R&D Awards

Posted: January 18, 2012

The finalists for the 2012 Cosmetics & Toiletries^® R&D Awards have been announced, which honor one new ingredient for its innovative design and/or method of development, and one finished product for the novelty and craft of its formulation and/or application of a technology.

Finalists were chosen based on the ratings of 10 international experts in the cosmetics industry, from a mix of manufacturers and universities. Ratings were based on significance to the industry and long-term impact. Judging now moves on to the final round, and winners will be announced at In-Cosmetics in Barcelona, April 17-19.

For Best New Ingredient, the finalists are the following (in random order).

Lonza (Arch), for its ReGeniStem Red Rice, an extract from a Himalayan Red Rice meristem culture that has been elicited to promote the expression of secondary metabolites. Targeting DNA methylation, the product decreases the amount of promoter methylation, which normally increases with age, to upregulate the expression of collagen protein. In addition, it upregulates dermatopontin protein expression in keratinocytes—and such expression was previously found only in fibroblasts. An in vivo study revealed the product reduced wrinkles and increased hydration.

Sederma, for its Resistem anti-aging ingredient combining eco-friendly production with a novel mechanism—hormesis. Based on vegetal stem cell cultures, the production method is designed to utilize natural resources sustainably while providing safe, high quality ingredients without causing damage to the environment. The mode of action is based on hormesis, i.e., the favorable biological protective and repair responses to low levels of stress. By activating the skin’s defenses via this approach, the ingredient has been shown to positively affect tissue regeneration, cell detoxification and cell longevity.