New for SCC Annual Meeting: Optics, China Regulations and Hair Growth

By: Rachel L. Grabenhofer

Posted: December 18, 2012

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Formulating: J. Chris Dederen, PhD (Croda Europe) then discussed sensory mapping to detect the perceivable effects of emulsifiers in emulsions, showing how to recognize various types of emulsions in a score plot and to find and control emulsions for specific sensory effects. Michael J. Fevola, PhD (Johnson & Johnson) presented on polymerized surfactants for mild cleansing—specifically, how a deeper understanding of micelle size distributions can further exploit the concept of hydrodynamic size exclusion as a mechanism for preventing surfactant penetration and irritation. This approach has led to vast improvements in product mildness.

Luncheon and 2013 Board Installation

During the second day’s luncheon, Joseph Pavlichko received the SCC Merit Award for his service and leadership to the society, and Joseph Dallal was presented the SCC’s Certificate of Appreciation for serving as 66th president and for furthering the progress of the society. Lastly, the society’s 2013 Board of Directors was installed, including: Guy Padulo (Kobo Products, Inc.) as president; Dawn Burke-Colvin (Mary Kay, Inc.) as vice president; Tony O'Lenick (Siltech, LLC) as vice president-elect; Peter Tsolis (Estée Lauder Companies) as treasurer; Dawn Thiel Glaser (Beraca) as secretary; Joseph Albanese (3V, Inc.) as director of Area I; Joy Welsh (Commonwealth Soap & Toiletries) as director of Area I; Kelly Dobos (Kao Brands Company) as director of Area II; Perry Romanowski (Brains Publishing) as director of Area II; Marc Ward (Wasatch Product Development) as director of Area III; Lisa Jones (Coast Southwest) as director of Area III; John Wagner (Merck Consumer Care) as director of Area IV; and Michelle Linscott (Xytrus) as director of Area IV.

Hair Condition and Growth

Hair condition: The final session of the meeting featured hair and scalp treatment topics, with dedicated speakers and attendees who "stuck it out" until the end. Howard Epstein, PhD (EMD Chemicals) moderated the session. First up was Timothy Gao, PhD (Croda Inc.), who discussed atomic force microscopy (AFM) to study hair surface morphology and how it affects hair shine and color vibrancy. He utilized the company’s hair color vibrance factor (HCVF) parameter to describe these attributes. His work showed that nano-scale determinations of hair smoothness were a good indication of hair shine, higher HCVF factors and matched objective evalutions.

Mike Hindley (Croda Europe) described a video imaging technique coupled with special software to quantify and analyze hair movement. Being most affected by damage and reparative treatments, the swing of hair tresses was assessed via this method, which could show improved swing with improved condition. Kazim R. Naqvi (University of York) presented the catalytic activity of transition metal ions in generating hydroxyl free radicals in hair coloring systems. The colorimetric probe N,N’-(5-nitro-1,3-phenylene)bisglutaramide (NPGA) showed that ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (EDDS) had a strong preference for copper ions and was effective in suppressing radical chemistry under realistic hair coloring conditions. EDDS was therefore suggested as a tool for controlling the formation of radical species in a coloring system to reduce damage to the hair fiber.

Hair growth: Finally, Thomas Mammone, PhD (Estée Lauder Companies) showed how increasing cellular energy via Adenosine diphosphate (ADP) promotes hair growth. ADP was found to increase DNA synthesis in papilla cells up to 20-fold at 0.5 mM while it increased DNA synthesis up to 14-fold at 0.25 mM. Hair plugs and eyelashes treated with this energy blend showed increases in hair length after 16 weeks of treatment.

According to SCC event organizers, the event was light in attendance from previous years—although it was not light in content. In fact, this editor heard at least three excited attendees comment on the different tracks they attended. One, reacting to the Frontiers of Science award lecture, said, “This is exactly what’s been missing.” Another greatly appreciated the China regulatory track, as it seems many manufacturers struggle with the rules for this market. A third really enjoyed the discussion of non-nano composites for sunscreen regulations, stating, “some very interesting concepts were presented in that talk and in that session.” If you attended, whether you agree or disagree, or experienced moments of brillance in other sessions, it’s safe to say the information presented merely hints at the step-changes to come.