Inventive Formulating Abounds Yet Questions Remain at SCC’s Scientific Seminar

By: Katie Schaefer, C&T magazine

Posted: June 23, 2010

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Vito Cataldo, a research chemist with Arch Personal Care Products, followed Draelos by presenting optically-responsive powders. Cataldo began by reviewing the recent light device trend, noting how blue light has been used to treat acne, how UV light has been used to treat psoriasis, and how red light has been used for antiaging. Cataldo’s team created a noni fruit-coated powder that increases elastin production upon interaction with red light. The light was also found to increase cell metabolism.

Antiaging was also the topic of Nathalie Chevrot, antiaging product manager at Seppic, who discussed her company’s research of the anti-wrinkle action behind palmitoyl isoleucine. According to Chevrot, the material at 1% was shown to promote adipocyte differentiation, thereby reducing the appearance of wrinkles, improving skin elasticity and plumping the skin.

The presentation of innovative raw materials continued with a talk on cyclopeptide-5’s ability to improve skin smoothness by Howard Epstein, PhD, of EMD Chemicals Inc. The peptide was designed by the company with an arginine-glycine-aspartic acid amino acid sequence. According to Epstein, the peptide promotes repair of the extracellular matrix components at the dermoepidermal junction zone. Through various in vitro and in vivo studies, the company reported that the peptide improved skin smoothness after 28 days.

The final presentation was given by Neena Philips, PhD, associate professor of biological sciences at Fairleigh Dickinson University. Philips discussed transforming growth factor-β (TGF- β) as the primary beneficial regulator of the extracellular matrix. The effects of TFG-β are down-regulated by UV radiation; therefore, Philips determined that products that inhibit MMPs and elastase while simultaneously stimulating TIMPs, collagen, elastin, fibrillin and TGF-β are ideal in counteracting skin aging. Her team discovered that Polypodium leucotomos, a Central American tropical fern, was able to inhibit MMPS while stimulating collagens, TIMPs, fibrillin and TGF-β.

After the seminar closed, it was evident that some industry issues will never be completely resolved. The line between cosmetics and drugs may never be defined, and the industry will likely never define natural. Regarding formulations, however, the industry will continue inventing innovative raw materials and technologies, consistently reinventing itself for future improvement.