NYSCC Showcases Global Technology Under One Roof

By: Katie Schaefer, C&T magazine

Posted: May 19, 2010

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Evonik introduced four new products at the show: two actives, a vegetable-based emulsifier and a vegetable-based emollient. Tego Care PSC 3 (Proposed INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Citrate) is a vegetable-based, biodegradable emulsifier created from natural glycerin, stearic acid and citric acid to be formulated into natural skin care and sun care. Also based on natural ingredients is Tegosoft OER (INCI: Oleyl Erucate), an enzymatically produced ester of oleyl alcohol and erucic acid that exhibits a structure and properties similar to jojoba oil without the yellow appearance. The company has also launched a topical wrinkle smoother, HyaCare 50 (Proposed INCI: INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Ethylhexyl Stearate (and) Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer (and) Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Poly-hydroxystearate/Sebacate (and) SodiumIsostearate (and) Alcohol). This cross-linked polysaccharide was made from pure, fermentation-derived hyaluronic acid to hydrate the skin, increase skin elasticity and smooth skin’s surface. Finally, the company has added Tego Xymenynic (Proposed INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Xymenynic Acid (and) Tocopherol), a skin filler, to its portfolio. The filler incorporates a phytochemical compound extracted from sandalwood seeds that is said to diminish the appearance of orange peel skin and improve skin texture.

This year, Momentive Performance Materials celebrated an important milestone, its 70th anniversary. The company was first founded in 1940 by a research chemist at General Electric Company (GE), who developed the process for industrial production of silicones. As part of its anniversary, the company introduced three new products. Velvesil 034 (INCI: Caprylyl Methicone (and) C_30-40 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer) is an organosilicone gel created to disperse and spread cosmetic ingredients in skin care, sun care, color cosmetics and hair care without tackiness. Also introduced were Silsoft AX (INCI: Bis-cetearyl Amodimethicone), an alkyl modified amino fluid that serves as a conditioning agent in hair care, and Tospearl AQ (INCI: Polymethylsilsesquiloxane (and) Polyquaternium-7 (and) PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (and) Methylsilanol Tri-PEG-8 Glyceryl Cocoate), silicone microspheres coated with a cationic polymer for incorporation into o/w emulsions where they help provide a smooth and silky feel.

After the first day of the exhibition concluded, attendees were transported over to the Hilton Garden Inn for Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine’s Supplier Appreciation Reception. Amidst a background of classical music and tables featuring the magazine’s motto “Formulating Results,” the company’s editors and sales staff greeted nearly 200 attendees who sipped on cocktails and dined on petit crab cakes, spanakopita and more, while catching up on the industry’s latest technologies and gossip. During the party, a donation was made to the NYSCC’s education fund on behalf of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine by the magazine’s sales manager, Tom Harris. Accepting the check on behalf of the NYSCC were Bill Woods, chair of the NYSCC board, and Laura Spaulding, the NYSCC education co-chair.

Clariant focused on both new introductions and formulation concepts at the exhibition. The company presented SilCare Silicone WSI, an emulsifier that adds smooth, silky feel without tackiness to skin care, sun care and color cosmetics. The emulsifier can also enhance absorption and shine in color cosmetics. Hostapon SG, an amino acid surfactant for sulfate-free, rinse-off products, was also presented at the company’s booth. This natural surfactant creates rich foam but rinses off easily. A suspending agent for pearls, bubbles and particles in cleansing formulations, Aristoflex, was also introduced. In terms of formulation techniques, the company discussed Velsan SC, a formulation aid, designed to boost preservation.

Sustainability was a hot topic for many suppliers at the exhibition, and it was a main focus for Eastman, who won the 2009 Presidential Green Chemistry Challenge Award for its Green Biocatalytic Process. The process operates at low temperatures using less energy, uses no solvents or strong acids, adheres to the Environmental Protection Agency’s Twelve Principles of Green Chemistry and can utilize natural source materials to product natural ingredients. The company is currently using this process to sustainably produce common cosmetic esters including: 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, myristyl myristate and isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate. According to the company, these esters are just as stable as their counterparts at a comparable price. The company also promoted its rosin resins, which are sustainably sourced by scoring pine trees. Although the rosins have been used in the past in chewing gum and adhesives, their cosmetic grade is new. These rosins provide enhanced adhesion, gloss and oxidative stability to color cosmetics.