Building Collagen, Boosting Immunity and Returning to Nature: In-Cosmetics Paris

By: Katie Schaefer and Rachel Grabenhofer

Posted: April 21, 2010

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Segment-specific
In several different instances, global suppliers promoted their company’s expertise in local consumer markets by developing products with a look, feel and in many cases, indigenous ingredients to appeal to those markets. While this may not be a new approach to product design, the focus of suppliers to promote their expertise in this way is. Specifically, Cognis/Laboratoires Sérobiologiques presented formulation solutions targeted to various regions by specific textures, actives, etc. Other innovations promoted ingredients sourced from exotic locations; for instance, Brazilian materials including raspberry and pine tree, as well as ethically supplied Australian botanicals.

A different segment-specific strategy by DSM aimed to roll out a line of formula concepts specific to men, including skin care, after shave balm, a sebum fighter, wrinkle repair and sun and eye care. According to the company, this approach leverages several products from its portfolio with one another to offer manufacturers a combined and complete approach to this market segment.

Delivering More
Ingredient delivery is yet another challenge, and one in which ongoing work continues. Aquea Scientific, for example, featured its Aquea highly charged micro capsules (HCMC) for delivery, while Induchem launched Gold and Silver Unispheres beads based on cellulose and sugars that can be loaded with actives, fragrance, etc. Various other spheres and liposomal vehicles were also highlighted, including BASF’s Cytovector QD cationic liposomes based on quasi-drug compliant ingredients, reportedly designed to enhance cellular penetration.

Supplier Services
Perhaps the effects of last year’s economy sparked what seemed to be an increase in supplier services leveraging existing processes and practices. In relation, several tools for formulators were offered; such as an HLB chart provided by Lipo Chemicals, formulating guides from Univar, and fold-out posters from BASF highlighting actives and their respective product applications, as well as BASF’s Sunscreen Simulator calculator, designed to assist formulators in calculating the in silico Sunburn Protection Factor (SPF) of materials (www.basf.com/sunscreen-simulator).

Finally, beyond “how-to” guides, some companies launched materials to reduce the amount of certain ingredients such as actives required in formulations to improve efficacy. For instance, Clariant launched new formulating concepts to "protect and preserve," including a new polymer in its Aristoflex line that boosts SPF and other solutions that reduce the amount of preservative needed in a formula.