Building Collagen, Boosting Immunity and Returning to Nature: In-Cosmetics Paris

By: Katie Schaefer and Rachel Grabenhofer

Posted: April 21, 2010

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Other eco-friendly materials focused on solvent-free processes, greener alternatives to silicones, and materials with improved sustainability and biodiversity. Ecocert certification appeared on some product labels and one company, Analyses Recherches Innovation Instrumentale, highlighted its water plant emulsion processing technology. Additional materials launched in the natural sector functioned as natural exfoliants and emollient butters; specifically apricot and mango, among others.

Kitosyme launched an alternative to animal-derived chitosan—its vegetal-derived chitosan, which is suggested for hair styling, antimicrobial benefits and hydration as well as to add a silicone feeling to skin care without using silicone. Finally, Beraca launched its Anti-acne Active System Organic, a combination of açai, andiroba and copaiba to eliminate acne-causing bacteria reportedly without drying the skin.

In relation to the naturals segment, also during In-Cosmetics Marketing Trends Theater presentations, Sarah McCartney of Lush presented her company’s green strategy to not use air freight where possible. The company therefore incorporates local ingredients into its formulations; for example, the seaweed in its Canadian products is sourced from Vancouver. McCartney noted that the cost of Lush products also varies by location based on the cost of the raw materials used in them.

New in Hair Care
Developing effective hair fixative, conditioning and color maintenance products is an ongoing task and several new ingredients were presented with this aim in mind. AkzoNobel launched DynamX H20, an aqueous version of its alcohol-based DynamX, for formulation into styling products such as pastes, waxes and gels. According to Laurie Marshall of AkzoNobel, "Those [formulators] looking to protect hair color should try an approach outside of ‘sulfate-free.’” Marshall added that the company is developing more biopolymers based on corn, potato and cellulose, as more formulators are looking for natural alternatives to polymers. In addition, Rhodia launched Mackine 301, a gentle surfactant designed to maintain hair color, while other suppliers presented solutions to volumize and style hair, several built on water-based polymers.

A few ingredient launches this year, notably targeted mechanisms, involved in hair growth. ISP, for one, launched BiotHAIRapy, a line of extracts designed to enhance hair follicle marker expression. Within the line, Capauxein, based on corn extract, is said to maintain the hair growth cycle as well as boost regeneration. Hair growth stimulants from other suppliers were based on yeast and rice, and apple and mushroom stem cell extracts.