Building Collagen, Boosting Immunity and Returning to Nature: In-Cosmetics Paris

By: Katie Schaefer and Rachel Grabenhofer

Posted: April 21, 2010

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Antiaging
Also targeted to maintaining skin health and youthfulness, Silab launched a high performance antiaging ingredient, Retilactyl D, derived from black pepper berries, to target the reticular dermis by increasing its adhesion to strengthen the skin’s underlying structure. Other innovations focused on antiaging as well; Induchem, for instance, presented an Alp rose stem cell extract designed to lift and tighten facial skin as well as body cellulite. Indena presented an asiaticoside for antiaging, while BASF presented its Hyalufix GL “shadow eraser” based on Galanga leaf extract to plump wrinkles. Finally, in a skin whitening approach to antiaging, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques highlighted its Radianskin (INCI: Hydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid) skin lightener, which it showed to be as effective as kojic acid.

In relation, during the In-Cosmetics Marketing Trends Theater presentations, Marie-Alix Leroy from Being presented on alternative approaches to antiaging. Leroy noted the aesthetics industry inspires cosmetics through products such as "facelift makeup" or "skin care with Botox-like effects"; she also noted growth in ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) products, and observed that many cosmetic companies are pairing with nutritionists.

Nutricosmetics
The transfer of nutrition into cosmetics was the theme for Leonidas Dokos, PhD, an industry analyst for the specialty chemicals group of Frost and Sullivan, in his market trends presentation on ingredients in the nutricosmetics market. According to Dokos, the most popular nutricosmetic ingredients include: carotenoids such as beta-carotene, lycopene and lutein; vitamins A, C and E; polyunsaturated fatty acids such as omega 3 and 6; and other ingredients such as phytosterols, CoQ10, green tea, fruit extracts, hyaluronic acid and collagen. “According to the data, now is the time to enter the nutricosmetic market,” said Dokos, who furthered that to do so, one must educate the consumer and establish scientific credibility.

Skin Basics
Besides antiaging effects for skin, some ingredient suppliers focused on skin care basics. International Specialty Products (ISP), for example, featured its Osmoline product for improved hydration and glow, and several other suppliers also stayed the course of skin moisturization; in one case, launching a carob seed ingredient for moisture binding. Micro-circulation, anticellulite and firming technologies were also ingredient trends in skin care; specifically Seppic, with its Voluform firming technology.

Back to Nature
The industry has never really wandered too far from nature, at least as of late, and several launches in this area attest to this fact. For instance, Dr. Straetmans presented its Symbio Solv XC natural solubilizer, while Rhodia launched its Rhodapex ESB-70 Nat, a sugar cane-derived SLES, for cleansing applications. In addition, Grant Industries launched UV Cut TiO₂-60-VL, a 60% dispersion of ultrafine TiO₂ in an Ecocert-certified, volatile coconut alkanes solvent.