Building Collagen, Boosting Immunity and Returning to Nature: In-Cosmetics Paris

By: Katie Schaefer and Rachel Grabenhofer

Posted: April 21, 2010

page 3 of 8

Paneau commented on opportunities rather than threats, reiterating the necessity of thinking globally when designing products. She also found the decoding of the human genome to be a new tool to support product claims being made to a more educated consumer base. Paneau also noted the mixing of races as an area of opportunity, and added that advances in biotechnology could advance innovation.

In the end, panelists generally agreed that innovation in cosmetics is not dead, although some felt the industry is looking for the next big step in innovation. Perhaps some of the ingredient or concepts launched at the show will move the industry to that next step; following is a sampling from the show.

Skin Defense
Enabling the skin to protect itself from environmental assault or the effects of aging was a primary trend among raw material suppliers. Silab, for example, highlighted its Celldetox product, which boosts autophagic processes within skin cells. Anti-irritation was another approach in this area, with products including oils for sensitive skin derived from milk thistle and gingko. Terms such as anti-edema, barrier enforcement and skin immunity appeared on product descriptions; one notably focused on circadian rhythms for improved skin immunity.

Another example to increase skin’s long-term immunity came from Induchem with its Unisooth ST-32 complex (INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Tamarindus Indica Seed Extract (and) Stevioside) to protect Langerhans cells. Giorgio Dell’Acqua, who developed the material with the company, explained, “It is based on the same natural ingredient as the sweetener and was inspired by the foods industry.” He noted that ingredients based on a food grade materials appeal emotionally to consumers since the materials can safely be ingested and the consumers therefore consider them safe. Other materials launched focused on skin elasticity; hair and skin restructuring—in one case, based on millet; and skin purification, regulation and balance. Two products, designed to increase skin’s tolerance, came from BASF, including its Osmogeline skin equalizer based on red algae extract, and its Symbiocell “pro-tolerance” technology based on Cestrum latifolium (bitter greens) extract.

Buiding Collagen
While some innovations aimed to beef up the skin’s defenses and restore balance, several others focused on building up collagen and repairing the skin. One example from the In-Cosmetics Innovation Zone was Innovabio’s DrinkBeauty Peptan collagen nutraceutical. Others, from Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, a division of Cognis, were Elestan LS 9913 (Glycerin (and) Manilkara Leaf Extract (and) Water (aqua)) and Elestan PW LS 9879 (Manilkara Leaf Extract (and) Maltodextrin), which were designed to stimulate the production of collagen; the company adds the materials are applicable for antiaging as well as anti-glycation and firming body care. Still other ingredient suppliers aimed to revitalize and regenerate the skin, in addition to providing anti-fatigue properties.