Building Collagen, Boosting Immunity and Returning to Nature: In-Cosmetics Paris

By: Katie Schaefer and Rachel Grabenhofer

Posted: April 21, 2010

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Azoulay furthered, “To innovate in beauty, you have to think about society.” She explained that while beauty differs among cultures, a commonality between them is the obligation of humans to transform their bodies. “Beauty is like a language,” said Azoulay. “It’s a human means to express oneself.”

Once the panel discussion closed, Heerink invited members of the press to present questions to panel members. During this session, Perrier addressed one question regarding biotechnology and the consumer’s perception of it. He noted the differences between biotechnology-derived ingredients and biotechnology as a tool to detect new biological mechanisms in skin. “Biotechnology-derived ingredients that are non-GMO are interesting because they take less water to produce; these are considered ‘white’ chemicals. However, GMOs cannot be considered natural. Biotechnology as a tool measures the efficacy of ingredients and detects biological activity on the skin. It’s not futuristic, it’s only a tool.”

Katie Schaefer, associate editor for C&T magazine, asked “Has the trend for ‘free-from’ formulations helped or hurt innovation?” To which Lewis replied, “This trend has emerged as ‘nu natural’ and plays into the idea that products are safer; however, this does present challenges to formulators.”

Rounding out the session, Rachel Grabenhofer, senior editor for C&T magazine, asked the panel, “What are the greatest threats to innovation?” Perrier’s response: “Every four or five years there is a big step forward in developing ways to measure efficacy or to formulate.” He noted that in those in-between years, there is a gap in innovation. “Currently, the gap in innovation is in makeup; new ways are needed to apply it, measure its effects and to develop makeup.” He added, “Tools make innovation much more interesting and understandable.”

Perrier also discussed consumer perception versus reality. “There is a disconnect between what we [as cosmetic R&D experts] know and what consumers think they know.” He observed that this is an important distinction, noting that “listening to consumers is a top priority.”