SCC Annual Meeting Focus: The Means to an End

By: Rachel Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

Posted: December 22, 2009

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Next up was James Hayward, PhD, of Applied DNA Sciences Inc., who described how the DNA from botanical genomes can be used to authenticate personal care products such as cosmetics, biotherapeutics and natural textiles, among others, and botanically-sourced ingredients. David Boudier of Silab then discussed methods to assess skin complexion and compared two populations: smokers and nonsmokers. Radiance analysis via both sensorial and analytical methods showed how the complexion of smokers was dulled in comparison with nonsmokers. Finally, Dominik Imfeld, PhD, of DSM Nutritional Products, stunned attendees with his presentation on snake venom from the temple viper as a biomimetic design model to develop an ingredient that mimicks waglerin-1, which is found in the venom, to treat skin wrinkles.

After the full day of technical sessions, attendees filed out into the technical showcase once again to network with innovative suppliers and manufacturers, followed by the Suppliers’ Cocktail Reception featuring food, drinks and good company, which allowed attendees to interact in a relaxed atmosphere and make new industry contacts as well as catch-up with existing relationships.

The next days’ concurrent sessions branched in two very different directions: the very technical and the very practical. R. Randall Wickett, PhD, of the University of Cincinnati led the charge in a Skin Biology session that featured talks ranging from: substances of plant origin, specifically glaucine from Glaucium flavum (yellow hornpoppy), that impact lipid storage (Karl Lintner, PhD, Sederma); and natural “precursors” to boost skin’s repair mechanisms (Giorgio Dell’Acqua, PhD, Dell’Acqua Consulting and Induchem); to a study finding that climate does not impact the biochemistry of the stratum corneum (Douglas Hoffman, Kimberly-Clark); the identification of chromosome passenger complex proteins that are involved in adult epidermal stem cell differentiation (Isabelle Imbert, ISP/Vincience); and tight junctions and the flow of lipids to restore skin barrier function (Boudier).

The concurrent session moderated by Lochhead focused on Formulation Fundamentals. This session kicked off with a keynote presentation by Ricardo Diez, PhD, of Chanel, sponsored by Ruger Chemical Corp., who gave a historical overview of 50 years of cleansing products. His presentation entertained attendees with a look at the first patents in the industry, old literature and advertisements of the time. Wrapping up the first presentation, Lochhead commented on the advertisements of today stating, “We need to reduce the level of sensationalism.”

Following this historic overview were presentations on: hyperbranched polyalphaolefins to modify polymer crystallinity to improve shine, durability and stability in color cosmetic formulations (Melanie Urdiales, New Phase Technologies); the use of oil/wax interaction data analyses to predict lipstick formulation firmness (Rebecca Peevers, Croda Europe); hand sanitizer formulations incorporating moisturizing ingredients (Lisa A. Flugge-Berendes, PhD); and improving emulsion quality by controlling phase inversion while reducing reducing energy application (T. Joseph Lin, PhD).