IFSCC Looks to Land, Fire, Surf and Sky for Formulation Answers

By: Rachel Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

Posted: November 3, 2009

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The first full day of presentations opened with the “land” theme and included talks on the efficient use of polymer pre-dispersions for emulsification and rheology control, and naturally derived polymers to boost the SPF and PFA of inorganic sunscreens.

In her discussion of plant cell cultures, Cornelia Schurch, PhD (Mibelle), described how the Uttwiler Spätlauber species of apple was identified as being of interest since the apple tends not to wrinkle after long periods of storage. This led to its cultivation to create a sustainable source of the material. According to company data, the material down-regulated the induction of cell senescence and could thus be used to assist the skin in maintaining its own vitality.

During the question and answer (Q&A) session for this talk, questions ranged from safety testing to whether other parts of the apple or varieties have similar effects. Schurch replied, “This was the only variety we were interested in, and it takes 3–5 years to set up the test.” She added that the effects were found only in extracts from the fruit. “We do not know the exact mechanism of action but it is interesting.”

Following a morning break for poster sessions and exhibits, the conference reconvened with a new focus on “fire.” Presentations covered topics such as TiO2 coated with manganese to defend against free radicals; photo-stabilizing sunscreens; and a new target for antiaging: crosstalk between the dermis/epidermis.

Kenji Shimizu (Nikkol) presented on dermal/epidermal crosstalk, identifying that the interactions of keratinocytes and fibroblasts can be blocked by strengthening intracellular ROS scavenging using a material such as Zn(Gly)2, which also was found to suppress MMP-1 production from fibroblasts. During the Q&A session, attendees wondered how this interaction occurs, to which Shimizu responded it requires further study. “This type of work is very interesting and important to our understanding of aging,” remarked one attendee.