Achieving UVA Protection and Awaiting Regulation Updates at the Sunscreen Symposium

By: Katie Schaefer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

Posted: September 25, 2009

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UV filters, specifically titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, were next presented by Patricia Aikens, PhD (BASF Corp.), who noted that although the safety of nano-sized zinc oxide and titanium dioxide has been questioned, both materials show no organ toxicity. She added that longer studies are necessary.

Mendrock-Edinger followed with a discussion on optimizing UV performance. She described factors that can influence the performance of sunscreens, including UV filter compatibilities and emulsifier choices, among others. Mendrock-Edinger recognized ensulizole for its contribution to high SPF levels as well as avobenzone for having the highest absorption power of UVA filters.

Moving the discussion to UVB, William Johncock, PhD, (Symrise) introduced findings in the causes and prevention of UVB-induced photodamage. He described new research suggesting the UVB rays cause a toxic response in the skin via activation of the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) and then introduced 2-benzylidene-5,6-dimethoxy-3,3-dimethylinden-1-one as an AhR inhibitor.

Hughes Beaulieu (Unipex) followed with a talk on ethnobotanical actives inspired by Native American culture with possible applications in sun care. He described the moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, anti-free radical and photoprotective effects of Sambucus nigra flower extract.

Photoprotective raw materials were also discussed by Lionel Resnick, MD, (Florida Atlantic University), who introduced the sun protective effects of sulindac (Clinoril), an FDA-approved NSAID. According to Resnick, sulindac, previously used for its anti-tumor activity, has also been found to act as a UVB inhibitor. He found combining the material with hydrogen peroxide also reduced erythema in skin.